Art deco-inspired colours belie recessionary blues

THERE WERE candlelit lanterns on the granite steps, purple lisianthus and snowberries entwined in the iron railings outside 56…

THERE WERE candlelit lanterns on the granite steps, purple lisianthus and snowberries entwined in the iron railings outside 56 Merrion Square yesterday where Louise Kennedy staged her autumn/winter fashion collection.

Never one to do things by halves, the designer also used the occasion to display a preview of her new Oriana crystal range for Tipperary Glass whose platinum painted candle holders and high tapering vases filled with hydrangeas dominated the entrance hall. That will launch in November.

Business in London, she says, has never been better. Her latest celebrity client is Geraldine Lynton-Edwards, due to marry film director and food critic Michael Winner in one of Kennedy’s cream lace wedding dresses later this month.

Her chic bridal boutique opened six months ago and is thriving. Demand for lace is soaring.

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Customers in London are mostly from the Middle East; “back after the Eid”, she says and fussy about sleeves, scarves and quality fabrics. There is also a resurgence of US clients.

Though geared to this clientele, the colours in Kennedy’s latest collection – emerald greens, purples, sapphire blues and reds – were inspired by those used by the Polish art deco painter Tamara de Lempicka after viewing an exhibition of her work in Rome. Dresses in silk, jersey or lace stood out in their vivid shades in a collection where tailoring and texture, as always, were primary strengths.

Darker inky blues, effective alternatives to solid black, made snug-fitting jackets, skirts and dresses in textured tweeds look elegant and sophisticated.

Longer sleeves on cashmere mix coats were embellished with jet or tiny pearls while trousers were mostly cropped and worn with black patent heels.

A waterproof quilted black parka stood out for its practicality.

If there is a recession, it didn’t show in the overall look of glamour and luxury in the collection – nor the prices. They started at €295 for skirts and trousers, €595 and upwards for dresses with coats from €1,200.

One reversible black cashmere knitted fur jacket, for example, the ultimate in opulent dressing, was five euro short of €4,000.