Shoulder to shoulder

Admirers of Richard Lewis's signature silk jersey creations will find much to covet in his spring/summer collection, writes Deirdre McQuillan

In a break with tradition, Richard Lewis showed his spring/summer collection in the Hallward Art Gallery on mannequins, along with a video presentation, rather than live models. "I just wanted a break from the hassle and stress," the designer said. "The costs of mounting a show are huge, but one of the advantages of doing it this way is we can make the dresses in normal sizes. In the video, we pinned the clothes on the models at the back and when they turned around, we pinned them at the front."

Mounting a conventional catwalk presentation demands making up the whole collection in size 10, or occasionally size eight, to fit the models, and Lewis's favourite girls are "tiny", he says. "We do make a size 12 with very large side seams so it fits the model and then we let them out again so they fit the clients." The current collection is small and focused, with his characteristic mix of slinky, silk jerseys, mixed with chunkier fabrics such as boucle tweeds in colours such as fudge, olive green, cobalt and jade as well as shocking pink.

In a gesture to current trends, he has incorporated fuller shapes in long jersey dresses, sleek on one side and gathered gently on the other, "so they are not too voluminous," he says. Appliquéd silk flowers are added here and there for decoration. Familiar favourites reworked in new colours include a trench coat in bronze silk, shapely cardigan-style jackets in boucle tweeds, and flattering white stock-necked shirts with double cuffs. One striking item was a stiff, padded silk wrap (an idea from a 1950s fur), worn with a clinging goddess gown. Another wrap in silk jersey was cut to shape the shoulders and stay in place, a practical touch.

For the first time, he has used beading on some fabrics - sarongs, little tops and the padded wraps - but essentially this collection is Lewis at his best and most controlled. The handmade jewellery in this shoot, including a beautiful hand-beaded neckpiece, was made by Jean Cashman.

Tops and skirts from €290, jackets and coats from €650, dresses from €790 and trousers from €350. All garments are made to order in a variety of colours and fabrics. Richard Lewis, 22 South Frederick Street, Dublin 2, 01-6797016