Pastoral present

MAYNOOTH is an advertisement for what can become of a town when it passed. It is getting on its feet again, after enduring many years of endless streams of traffic trundling towards Dublin, 20 minutes' drive away.

In his first official function as Taoiseach, John Bruton, opened the Leixlip/Maynooth/ Kilcock by pass on December 19th, 1994, and all was changed utterly. Now, as the traffic recedes, the carbon monoxide clears and the noise of the infernal internal combustion engine abates, Maynooth is emerging in its true character - as a university town dominated by trees. It has a distinct, calm, pastoral quality. Kildare Co Council has created a fine modern newly cobbled square at the village centre, with "connecting arches" and bronze sculptures, and a new monument to 15 volunteers from the area who took part in the 1916 Rising. New restaurants, a hotel, and an equestrian centre have opened. There is a sense of Maynooth rediscovering itself, and liking what it sees.

WORTH VISITING:

St Patrick's College and all that lies therein, as well as the university campus beside it. St Patrick's visitors centre is open every day - until 5 p.m. on weekdays, 6 p.m. on Sundays. There are regular tours of the college and its grounds each day.

Priests were trained at Maynooth before the Reformation, but the seminary was closed in 1538 by Henry VIII. It was reestablished by an Act of the Irish Parliament in 1795. In 1966 St Patrick's began to admit lay students, and it is a recognised college of the National University of Ireland.

Built to a design by Pugin in the early 19th century, the main college building alone is worth the detour. On the walls of its arched corridors hang paintings of prelates past, and photographs of its newly ordained priests for most years from 1937 to 1996. Everyone in Ireland will know somebody there.

At the end of the corridor is St Patrick's neo gothic chapel with its 454 choir stalls, making it the largest stalled chapel in the world. It was built between 1874 and 1890, and the spire - probably Maynooth's most famous landmark - was completed in 1902.

Maynooth castle has been described as one of the most impressive ruins of a feudal castle in these islands". It was built in 1176 by the Norman, Maurice Fitzgerald. But his structure, with motte and bailey, was replaced by the present castle in the 13th century.

Over the doorway is the Fitzgerald coat of arms which includes two monkeys. The story told is that this was to honour two members of the species who, it was said, saved two of the Fitzgerald children from a fire.

Carton House was built in 1603, but the present structure was erected in the 18th century to a design by the German architect Richard Cassels. One of the finest houses of its period, it is in private ownership and not open to the public.

However, the tree lined avenue from the house entrance to Maynooth is under Co Council control and is open to the public. Stretching about three quarters of a mile, with beeches towering to about 30 feet each side, this is serious "moonlight and roses" territory.

Nothing in Maynooth quite prepares the visitor for the revelation that is the lounge at Cassidy's Roost public house, just across from St Patrick's College. With its marble floor, Corinthian/Doric/Ionic pillars, stained glass high Gothic canopy, high altar artifacts,"inclining" nudes, nubile ladies (and they're just the clientele!) grecian reliefs, and big screen, it is probably the finest example of the greco ecclesiatico gothic hotchpotch you will come across in this country. And the only one.

WHERE TO STAY:

The Glenroyal Hotel: Opened last November. Its leisure centre, with 25 metre swimming pool, gym, jacuzzi, steam room and sauna, opens this autumn. Free to residents; other users must be members. Rates are £55 for single room with breakfast; £75 for a double. All en suite. Self catering apartments are also available at £80 for a single per night, £55 per person sharing for a double, or £385 per week.

Moyglare Manor Hotel, about three miles from Maynooth: B&B is £85 for single, £130 for a double. All en suite. Glebe B&B: £45 single, £85 double. All en suite. Leinster Arms B&B: £22 per night, including breakfast, per double room, regardless of number staying. All en suite. Park Lodge B&B: £15 per person sharing.

WHERE TO EAT:

Coffee shops/sandwich bars: Elite Confectionery on the main street; Pie Kwick on the Square; the Rye restaurant at the college entrance.

Bar food is available in the town's five pubs - the Leinster Arms, the Geraldine Arms, Brady's, Cassidy's Roost, all on the main street, and the Glen bar at the hotel.

Reasonably priced (£7 to £12 per main course) restaurants, mostly new, include the Orange Tree (European) and the Royal City Chinese restaurant on Mill Street, Donatello's (Italian) off the main street, and Kehoe's (European) on the main street. Somewhat more expensive is the Obelisk restaurant in the Glenroyal Hotel. Full dinner there is £20, or £12 for two courses. All open at 6.30 p.m.

WHAT TO DO:

Walk whether along the Royal Canal, along the Carton House avenue, in the grounds of St Patrick's College or the university campus.

This week there will be extra activities in the town for the Maynooth Community Festival which began on Sunday.

The new Equestrian Centre on the main street - offers riding lessons for £7 per child, £12 per adult (per hour).

Maynooth Pitch and Putt on the Dunboyne Road offers its facility for £3, with a club included £2.50 if you bring your own.

NIGHT MOVES:

There is music in both the Leinster Arms and Cassidy's Roost pubs on Thursdays and Sundays, sometimes on Fridays. The Glen bar at the Glenroyal Hotel has music every Sunday night. And of course you are just 20 minutes from Dublin's pubs, clubs, cinemas, theatres and general wonderland.

WHAT TO BUY:

Terry Rogers has a fine selection of quality Irish made gifts at Just Gifts on the square. Included are crystals, porcelain, Beleek, and bog oak sculptures. The Aran shop, next door to the Rye cafe at the college entrance, sells Aran sweaters etc from £10 upwards.

GETTING THERE:

Branch off the M4 at Lucan and take the N4 westwards. There's a regular train service to Maynooth station to/from Dublin, and the 66 bus arrives/departs every 30 minutes on weekday (less regularly on Sundays).