Roland Mouret kicks off Paris fashion week in style

“I have tried to be true to myself. I have taken that skill I have and tried to make an honest collection” said the designer

Roland Mouret

in the notes for his show held in the ballroom of the Westin Hotel, the first to kick off yesterday at Paris fashion week.

Known for body skimming sheath dresses, artfully cut, with their familiar exposed back zips, this collection was far less contrived than usual and drew, in a modern graphic way, from patchwork quilting and craft techniques. That focused interest in multicoloured panelled bodices of close fitting dresses and in shawl collared tailored coats, particularly a zany striped number in black, cream and white. Free of any other extraneous detail, sheer insets in dresses or pleats in basketweave skirts kept the look flirty while ankle socked leather boots made for an easy stride.

There was more anticipation at Carven where two young designers made their debut as artistic directors of the 70-year-old brand, both having forged their careers in accessories and knitwear. The show in the Tuileries was delayed to allow the entrance of singer songwriter Solange Knowles, younger sister of Beyonce, dressed in a bright red teddy bear coat from the collection.

Clearly aimed at a youthful audience, the bomber jacketed trouser suits were skin tight, flippy skirts were ultra short and slouchy overcoats looked carelessly opulent trimmed with Mongolian fur. It was cute and girlish with a nod to the 1970s in its flower power flares with matching peplum jackets. Bags were tossed over the back, schoolgirl style, stilettos worn with socks and hair was long, loose and unruly. You get the picture.

There was nothing girly about Anne deMeulemeester's collection now in the hands of her colleague Sebastien Munier held in the cavernous halls of an old convent and like all shows on Thursday delayed for more than forty minutes. Disappointing, it was too focused on the monochrome aesthetic of its founder with not enough allure to lift a modern wardrobe. Everything was loose, baggy and black, anchored with elaborate leather cummerbunds and straps and accessorised with gauntlet gloves, high leather boots and bedraggled hair. A dark winter vision for 2015, it offered little relief from its sombre Gothic gloom.

Roland Mouret Spring Summer 2015 Paris Fashion Week