There will always be a travel writer, it seems. In a way Giraldus Cambrensis comes into that class, though he was much more. Odd, but good fun. And if people of his time could have seen the brilliant Dolmen Press issue with its superb illustrations, the island would have had many longboats or whatever making for our shores. For John J. O'Meara with his new translation and commentary, along with illustrations, forms a landmark. We now leap a few centuries to France where there was real tourist writing in 1616 with a volume by Just Zinzerling, An Itinerary in Gaul and Neighbouring Regions. But he wrote in Latin, like Giraldus, so it's Itinerarium Galliae et finitimarum regionum. The author, by the way, was 26 years of age. One difference with travel writers of today is that his tour was to last three years. But he is on the ball as regards the budget. For example, to get from Orleans to Bourges, the best way is to hire a horse on a Wednesday, when they are being brought back riderless to Bourges. Like all travel writers, he gives advice about food, as a matter of course. He praises above all the fat thrushes of Bordeaux "recommended by Martial", and the oysters of the Medoc. He confesses that before visiting Bordeaux and La Rochelle he had only eaten them marinated or cooked. Never raw. At first he was horrified to see them being swallowed raw in the morning - even before breakfast - in the hostelries. And then, of course, he was so annoyed with himself for having for so long missed out on a treat.
At Moulins he came across some Dutch people who made excellent beer and who also took in paying guests. (B and B plus, you might say.) And he has advice on what to buy for bringing home as presents. Souvenirs you could say. In a quarter of Moulins there were a great number of artisans who made excellent knives and scissors. When you arrive at your hotel, women come along offering such souvenirs or merchandise. They are very welcoming of strangers at Moulins, he writes. There is constant reference to Gaule and France. The inhabitants of Bourges, French, are fiery or vivacious but any irascibility dies down quickly. The book was very successful, republished often and plagiarised. And not translated into French until 1859. Another day, map-making at the time. From Archelogue, August-September 1999.