And more from our travelling gourmet in France, who is now well up in the lore of mushrooms - mycology. The heavy rain after an Indian summer, he writes, may discourage many, but not the enthusiastic mushroom hunter. Armed with a penknife, a box with several compartments, and a camera, he or she dons wellington boots and heads for the woods. Also useful are a map and compass, a magnifying glass and a mushroom guide. He recently acquired Le Guide des Champignons: Reconnaitre, Ramasser, Cuisinier, a comprehensive guide to recognition, gathering and cooking of the same.
The first piece of advice is to pick only young specimens, leaving old, wormy, water-engorged or frost-damaged fungi to spread their spores in peace. Then, before picking, observe the situation of the fungus so as to learn which conditions favour its growth. If you recognise the fungus as safe, cut it neatly at the base; otherwise remove the whole foot, which makes its identification easier. Once picked, brush off any soil or leaves and place gently in a basket, taking care to separate different species. Because fungi are so delicate, it is advisable to handle them as little as possible, and to eat them without delay. Failing that, the best place to keep them is the vegetable compartment of the fridge - feet in the air.
But who owns them? In France, home of many enthusiastic mycologists, Article 547 of the Civil Code decrees that mushrooms belong to the landowner; in national parks, collection is sanctioned, but for familial rather than commercial consumption, and harvests can legally be limited to two or three kilos per person. What regulations exist here?
"God be with the days," said one of his relatives, "when we went out of an August evening, each armed with a white enamel bucket, through the fields of neighbours in Islandmagee, Co Antrim, and often filled them. You could see the beggars grow. First time around the field there would be little buttons lurking in groups; an hour later they would be noticeably bigger and before darkness had completely fallen, you had your share of nice, flat-topped items, just right for the egg, bacon, potato-cake and sausage cooked breakfast. Just the one variety of course, your ordinary field mushroom. And then, I suppose, came the new chemical farming." You don't have to believe him, but it wasn't too far off the truth.