DESPITE being an island nation, our relationship with the seas around us is, at best, fairly tenuous. However, in Dún Laoghaire, Co Dublin, the Maritime Institute of Ireland is doing its best to change our lack of interest in salt-water. The institute has for some years had a Maritime Museum in a one-time church overlooking the town’s East Pier – it is, in its own way, quite a landmark for anyone at sea off Dún Laoghaire.
The church, which was at one time the main Church of Ireland church in Dún Laoghaire, was built in 1837: it could accommodate up to 1,400 people with, according to its deed of trust, one-third of the seats allocated to the families of those involved in seafaring, and the revenue and coastguard services. It also had a prisoners’ dock, where prisoners awaiting transportation could attend services.
By 1971 the the congregation had dwindled, and the church closed. Several years later, after agreement between the Representative Church Body of the Church of Ireland and the Maritime Institute of Ireland, the church, suitably renovated, was reopened as the National Maritime Museum of Ireland.
And what a mass of exhibits it has. The museum holds more than 7,000 artefacts (naturally, only a relatively small number of these are on show). Among its most popular exhibits are the Baily Optic, the light from Howth’s Baily lighthouse. This light was installed in 1902, and worked until it was replaced in 1972, with the modernisation of the lighthouse. Once powered by gas, then oil, the light’s power was equal to 2,000,000 candle-power.
Another favourite is the 38ft long officers’ barge which was captured in Bantry after the failed French invasion attempt of 1796 – the boat is still in good condition and was painted in the blue, white and red of the then new French republic. Also on that invasion attempt was Irish republican leader Theobald Wolfe Tone. Staying with matters military is the navigation chart used by Raimund Weisbach, the commander of U-19, the German submarine that landed Roger Casement on Banna strand in Co Kerry in 1916. There’s even a cannon from the Spanish Armada of 1588.
The sinking of the RMS Leinster in October 1918, just a month before the end of the first World War, is commemorated by a number of artefacts, including excellent models of the ship. The loss of life on the Leinster was horrific, with more than 500 people being drowned: it was often claimed that many of those killed were postal sorters who were locked in the mail sorting room, and so couldn’t get to the lifeboats.
We had plenty of militaria from our “gallant Continental allies” over the centuries – it seems now almost as if we were preparing ourselves for EU membership from way back! As time went by, the building itself became in need of repair. With some 1,400 square metres of exhibition floor space, maintenance became an increasing problem. As the museum was – and is – run on a voluntary basis, and depends on voluntary fund-rasing, the building needed renovation on a huge scale.
In 2006 a business plan was presented to government and, ultimately, some €3.6 million was granted for renovation and restoration. By this stage the roof was in a bad state, the stonework was dulled and discoloured (the granite used was from Dalkey quarry), and gutters, downpipes and plumbing needed replacing.
Even the church’s original stained glass windows needed repair. The now restored glass is protected by ultra-violet screens, which saves both artefacts and pictures from harmful sunlight.
As with many restoration projects, once started, fresh problems appear, in the harsh light of day: all the internal plasterwork which was damaged by damp, and the rotting timbers – including the ceiling, 80ft above ground level – had to be removed and replaced with modern materials compatible with the original structure.
Before the work could be started, all the exhibits had to be moved from the main body of the museum and shifted to safety in the basement. Big displays, such as the Baily Optic, were boxed and dustproofed in situ. As the work continued, with the installation of heating, new access and toilet facilities for the disabled, so the building became almost a testing ground for the most up-to-date restoration and preservation techniques. All the work has been done to conform with today’s strict health and safety regulations.
The church’s bell tower, complete with a new viewing platform, will provide a stunning panorama over the harbour and town of Dún Laoghaire, and indeed much of the Dublin coastline.
Because of the massive amount of restoration work, the museum has been closed for the past number of years – once the work started in earnest, the public could no longer have access to the museum’s treasures. However, after about five years of hard slog, the job is complete.
Breasal Ó Caollaí, who is part of the museum’s sub-committee which has overseen the project, says that the museum, which reopens today (admission €5), will give the town itself a boost as lovers of the sea return to the ancient church that once dedicated itself to seafarers, and now overlooks their history and contribution to Ireland’s maritime past. The official opening, by President Michael D Higgins will be in June.