The most fascinating wine-matching exercise witnessed in a long time was held recently in Cassia, a Chinese restaurant in Templeogue. Yuk Chan, who ran Kites in Ballsbridge for seven years, reckons she is the first restaurateur in Ireland to offer authentic Chinese, Thai and Japanese cuisine under one roof. At a banquet to demonstrate the (considerable) talents of her new culinary team, Richard Verling of Findlaters provided endless food for thought on the wine front. Best combinations? Champagne Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label with sushi; Chablis 1er Cru Montmains, Louis Michel 1998 with Thai-style sea bass and a wonderfully palate-cleansing Thai fish salad; Alsace Pinot Gris Prince Abbes Schlumberger, 1997 with Thai prawn cakes; and Morgon Chateau de Raousset 1998 with Cantonese crispy chicken. This fruity but relatively rich Beaujolais was in fact the most flexible wine of the night - something to bear in mind if you find yourself at an Asian feast. Cassia is above The Morgue pub in Templeogue village, tel 01-4900473.