THERE was a marine influence in Nicky Wallace's spring collection for men and women, shown in the Mercantile Bar in Dame Street, Dublin. Perhaps living in a light house has something to do with it clearly it was a case of manning the boats.
Nicky Wallace built up his reputation and became an internationally known name designing for men. Taking women on board is fairly new, and the styles for both are closely linked.
But the menswear is better, every inch a designer's range. There is an eastern feel to the clothes with collarless, loose shirts and jackets, and baggy, draw string trousers, but the colours and the linens are Italian.
Tobacco brown and black, plenty of natural, navy and marine blues, and pure white are used for both men and women and, unless it is a shift dress, the lines are almost the same. Tailoring is soft no hard lines, or sharp shoulders.
It is a bit arty and romantic. Men's hooded smock jackets, or high lapelled coats and short reefers, and the loose fitting trousers are, as the designer says, "classics with a twist." He wants his clothes to be worn until they grow old.
Among the men's designs are mandarin jackets in black and white boating stripes, co ordinated with waistcoats and worn with black linen trousers; or there are the marine blue, double breasted jackets, teamed with French navy waistcoats and white linen trousers.
It all suggests messing about on yachts or, at the very least, picnicking on the river bank.
The picture is completed by the women in their two tone linen dresses and trailing chiffon scarves, or in easy jackets and trousers. In the evening they slip into blue and white chiffon sheath dresses or, if they can be torn away from the sea, something metallic and minimal.
Jackets cost from £250, trousers from £120, tops from £70 and dresses £150. The collection is available at Nicky Wallace's studio at 15 South Anne Street, Dublin, where there is also a business line in sharp, neat tailoring for men and women. But the sea calls louder.
. A marine blue chiffon sheath (£300) from the Nicky Wallace collection.