Last September, an Australian friend who is the most persuasive foodie I have ever known made her first trip back to Dublin, where she had lived for a decade. At the time, I was packing a suitcase for my first trip to Australia, and keen to gobble up advice from the mentor who had introduced me, years ago, to the subtleties of dry sherry and the best fruit and veg vendors in Moore Street. What mouthwatering treats should I be sure to look out for Down Under? She closed her eyes in ecstasy and uttered just one word. A word and a sound. Ahhhhhh, Rieslings.
She was right. I went to the Barossa Valley fired with enthusiasm for its famous, powerful reds and came back having taken an unexpected fancy to the exhilarating white wines from the cooler Eden Valley right next door. I suppose it was the wine equivalent of going off to meet somebody you'd been mad about for years, only to stumble into a sudden infatuation with a near-stranger. Why don't we hear more about these delicious Aussies whose refreshing lime character makes them perfect for summer drinking?
Riesling (pronounced reesling, please - not riseling) is difficult to sell, the wine trade moans. That's because of the sad fate that has befallen Germany, the main European source of wines made from this noble grape. Vast quantities of sweetish, over-sulphured commercial junk have tainted the whole image of Riesling - a crying shame when, at the quality end of the spectrum, Germany continues to produce the most thrilling examples of all. Unlike these teutonic aristocrats, however, Australia's versions are generally quite reasonably priced (even after their long journey to Ireland). They're designed for everyday enjoyment. That, more than anything, gives them a head start in the long-heralded Riesling revival, which is finally underway.
Despite widespread reservations about customer resistance, Australian Riesling is steadily asserting itself, from the popular end of the market right on up. Look, for instance, at Jacob's Creek Dry Riesling, the pale young sister of Ireland's favourite red wine brand, introduced here nervously two years ago and now selling at high speed at £5.79. "It has done much, much better than any of us ever expected," says Colin Sullivan, a director of the Irish agents, Fitzgeralds. "Once you get over the mental hurdle of Riesling, the wine itself is a winner."
He points out that the use of the word "dry" on the label and a Bordeaux-shaped bottle rather than the traditional tall, germanic one - ploys widely used now by Riesling producers - have helped to reassure consumers. With other budget-priced Rieslings widely available (Tesco/Quinnsworth's Australian Rhine Riesling and Dunnes Stores's Moyston Riesling both do well at £4.99), it would seem the much-maligned grape is definitely marching back into favour. That reflects its situation in Australia.
"Riesling is hot at the moment," Stephen Henschke, a leading producer in the Eden Valley, is reported as saying recently. "Everybody's talking about it and wine makers are starting to take it more seriously." Riesling grape prices are climbing steadily - the sure sign of a thirsty market. As Wine magazine points out, it's almost a return to the glory days when Riesling led Australia's white wine boom, circa 1970 BC (Before Chardonnay).
While the simple quaffing wines mentioned above are certainly worth trying, a pound or two more will bring you within reach of an array of much more complex, intriguing buys. Different regions of Australia, although all relatively cool to succeed with this grape, produce different styles - the Eden Valley with floral notes and piercing acidity, the Clare Valley fuller and richer, Western Australia fragrant with herbal undertones, although the classic whiff of kerosene is common to almost all. Oddbins in Baggot Street and Blackrock is one of the most rewarding hunting grounds, with 10 Aussie Rieslings to choose from, priced between £5.99 and £9.99. Other wine shops, please copy. Swift trend-spotting and shrewd buying have helped these boyos from across the water get where they are today, i.e. here.
Australian Rieslings are fruitier, on the whole, than their German counterparts - pronounced lime and grapefruit flavours rather than subtle apples and lemons. They are also Achtung! - more alcoholic. But, no matter where it comes from, the appeal of Riesling rests on the same, delicate balance between fruit and that rush of refreshing acidity that makes your tongue tingle and the contents of your glass disappear. What I also like about it is its versatility. In Australia, it's often enjoyed on its own as an aperitif, then poured again with the first course. It's also good with fish, grilled vegetables and a whole panoply of dishes with subtle Asian spices. Then, if there's anything left in the bottle, you can sip that on its own again. Tut, tut, do I hear you mutter, what about will-power, what about restraint? Well, Oz Riesling rewards those virtues too by improving in the bottle if you can manage to leave it alone. As a rule of thumb, either drink it within two years of the vintage or hide it away for at least five.