For starters: Chablis Premier Cru VauLigneau, Domaine Alain Geoffroy, 1998 (Oddbins, £13.99). A swish Chablis at a reasonable price, made in a style with wideranging appeal. See Bottles of the Week - above right.
Fetzer Bonterra Chardonnay, Mendocino, 1997 (Molloys group; O'Briens group; McCabes, Merrion; Vintry, Rathgar; Higgins, Clonskeagh and many other outlets, also Oddbins, usually £10.99). This flavoursome organic Californian has the weight smoked salmon needs, backed up by just the right amount of toasty oak.
Brown Thomas Champagne Millennium Brut, Blanc de Noirs NV (Brown Thomas Dublin, Cork and Limerick; Moons, Galway £25). BT's stylish bubbly has enough body and flavour to see you through the first course, should you so desire.
When it comes to dessert wines, try MICK Morris Rutherglen Liqueur Muscat NV (Vintry, Rathgar; Deveneys, Dundrum; McCabes, Blackrock; Wine Cellar, Maynooth; Greenacres, Wexford and other outlets, half bottle £6.50-£6.99). A dark, toffee-and-raisin Australian sticky which marries nicely with the pud at a stocking-filler price.
Tokaji Aszu Blue Label, Royal Tokaji Wine Company, 1995 (Vintry, Rathgar; Cheers-Gibneys, Malahide; Mill, Maynooth; Copes, Kildare; McCambridges, Galway; Vineyard, Galway; O'Keeffes, Kilkenny and other outlets, 50cl bottle about £18.50) - this Hungarian classic is a treat, especially with paler puddings the sort that have more candied peel and sultanas than currants. The beauty of it is that it's also magical on its own.