Christmas Eve, and still no bottles procured to suit tomorrow's feast? Worry not. The supermarkets are open all day and off-licences half the night as well, solving this very problem. All you need to do is take a few minutes to think about the kind of wine that's most likely to enhance your Christmas menu.
Let's look at the traditional Christmas dinner course by course, wine by wine, and stick to a few broad principles.
To start, many households will have oysters or smoked salmon. White Burgundy is the obvious answer, Chablis the favourite appellation. While a steely, ultrafresh style will be fine for the molluscs, you'll need one that's a little broader for the salmon.
For the turkey, resist the reflex to pick claret, which is often too dry and tannic to do the poor bird any favours. Instead, plump for the rich sweetness of Shiraz, or, if you're an Old World purist, the alluring fruit of a youngish Burgundy.
As for the pud, the New World wins again with Australian stickies such as Liqueur Muscat or Botrytis Semillon matching those raisin and candied fruit flavours.
Below, I've outlined two different approaches to today's wine hunt. The first is a line-up of ideal bottles for those lucky souls with cash and time to spare. (Time may not be a problem, remember. If my own household is anything to go by, certain members will be desperate for an excuse to escape the turkey-prepping frenzy.) Underneath are more modestly priced and widely available alternatives. Happy drinking. Happy Christmas.
Special somethings
Champagne
Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve NV, Mis en Cave 1993 (widely available, usually about £25.99). Nothing beats champagne as a special start to Christmas dinner - and here's one so soft and mellow that everybody will love it. It's one of a run of new Charles Heidsieck releases - non-vintage champagnes matured for several years, as indicated by the cellaring date on the label.
White
Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Premier Cru Montmains, 1996 (McCabes Merrion, Grapes of Mirth Rathmines, DeVine Wine Shop Castleknock, usually about £16.50). An exquisite wine from a top grower - broader, creamier and less austere than textbook Chablis, perhaps, but none the worse for that. Outstanding.
Red
Volnay Premier Cru Les Caillerets, Ancienne Cuvee Carnot, Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils, 1994 (McCabes Merrion, Redmonds Ranelagh, Cheers at Gibneys Malahide and some other outlets, about £21). In spite of all my preaching about the turkey's suitability to Shiraz, I know there are classicists who'd far prefer a seductive Burgundy. This Volnay is a heady charmer - just right for drinking now.
Pudding
Mick Morris Rutherglen Liqueur Muscat (McCabes Merrion, Grapes of Mirth Rathmines, Tracys Glasnevin, Pettitts in the south-east, O'Donovans Cork and other outlets, half bottle usually £5.99). To hell with restraint. If you're producing a Christmas pud, maximise the impact with an Australian sticky that has the same rich, dark flavours. Mmm!
Last-minute salvation
Traditional Christmas dinner wines that are easy to track down.
For starters: Chablis, Charles Vienot, 1997 (Superquinn, £6.99). Back down to the special sale price for Christmas, which makes this light, uncomplicated but nonetheless typical Chablis a real bargain.
Chablis, Jean-Marc Brocard, 1997 (Oddbins Baggot Street, Blackrock and Clontarf, £8.99). The same chap as above, here delivering a very crisp and attractive basic Chablis at a super price.
Chablis, Louis Latour, 1996 (widely available, £11.50-£11.99). A smart buy: the Latour name is synonymous with stylish, white Burgundy. The basic Chablis is made to please - less steely than some, with lovely weight and smoothness.
For the bird: KWV Shiraz, Western Cape, 1997 (widely available, usually £6.99). South Africa isn't normally thought of as a source of Shiraz - and Shiraz isn't normally as lively and juicy as this easy-drinking example - light, fragrant and very flexible.
Tesco McLaren Vale Shiraz, 1995 (Tesco-Quinnsworth, £8.69). Closer to the classic Australian benchmark, this one from top producer Maglieri is much richer - laden with opulent dark fruit, spice and coffee flavours. A great buy for all sorts of Christmas occasions.
Rosemount Estate Shiraz, 1996 (widely available, £8.49-£8.99). As recommended a fortnight ago, a smooth, plummy mouthful - broad flavours, broad appeal.
Peter Lehmann The Barossa Shiraz, 1996 (widely available, usually £8.99). One of my all-time favourites at the price, a typically chunky Barossa Shiraz from a master of the genre. Better with goose than turkey, but worth having, no matter what!