It really is time we lost our fear of squid: it is not a food we should reserve for trips to Chinese restaurants, or trips to the Med when we order fritto misto without a second thought. It is delicious, inexpensive, and versatile, and it is in season right now.And all you need to know is that squid can only be cooked two ways: very quickly, or very slowly - in between, it turns to the texture of shoe leather - and you can either stuff it, or slice it into rings and cook it.Chilli Peppers Stuffed With Squid, Mushrooms and MarjoramAn American correspondent picked this dish, by Rory O'Connell of Ballymaloe House in Shanagarry, Co Cork, as his single favourite dish during a three-week trip to Irleand last summer. Here the squid is used as the stuffing, rather than the receptacle for stuffing, and its mildness - despite the chillis - is a good introduction to the flavour of squid. Look for the largest, mildest chillis you can get.Olive Oil2 oz onion or scallion, finely chopped 1 large clove garlic, crushed4 chilli peppers (large, mild ones, 5-6 inches long, Anaheim Red)8 oz squid, sac and wings cu into half-inch cubes and tentacles cut into one-inch lengths2 oz white breadcrumbs4 oz mushrooms, finely chopped1 tablespoon marjoram, finely choppedSalt and pepperHeat one tablespoon olive oil in a small, heavy saucepan. Add the chopped onion and garlic and sweat over low heat, covered for five minutes to soften but not colour the onion and garlic. When the onions are soft, increase the heat and add the chopped squid and mushrooms. Cook briskly for a couple of minutes until the squid has lost its opaqueness. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add the breadcrumbs and marojam: taste again.Slice the top off the chillies, carefully reserving the tops for lids. Remove the seeds and season the inside of the chillies with salt and pepper. Put the stuffing into a piping bag or alternatively, use a teaspoon: stuff the chillies tightly. With a cocktail stick, shewer the lids back on to the stuffed chillies.Place chillies on a small roasting pan, drizzle with a little olive oil and roast in a moderate oven for about 20 minutes, until the chilli is roasted and tender and the stuffing is very hot. Check this by inserting a cocktail stick into the chillies. There should be no resistance and the temperature of the cocktail stick will reflect the temperature of the stuffing.Serve piping hot with any pan juices and a few rocket leaves seasoned with sea salt and cracked pepper and another drizzle of olive oil for good measure! Serves four.Sauteed SquidThis is an adaption by Rick Stein of a recipe from The International Squid Cookbook, by Isaac Cronin. The squid here is in the company of its very best friends - garlic, oil and lemon juice - and you need only good chips and a bottle of Chardonnay.450g/1 lb squid2 garlic cloves, finely chopped25ml/1 fl oz olive oilPinch of crushed dried chilli1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh parsleyJuice of quarter lemonSalt and freshly ground black pepperLemon wedges to serveSauteed Squid with Olive Oil, Garlic And Parsley
Clean the squid and cut the body section into rings.
Quickly fry the garlic in hot olive oil and add the squid just as the garlic is beginning to brown.
Add the seasoning and a pinch of chilli. Turn over and sautee for two to three minutes.
Add the parsley and lemon juice.
Serve with lemon wedges and chips.
Salt And Pepper Squid
450g (1lb) squid, the sac cut into circles, the tentacles and wings in one-inch lengths
2 tablespoons salt
1 teaspoon each five-spice powder; ground roasted Szechwan peppercorns; ground black pepper
Oil for deep frying
Dry the squid. Make the spice mixture: heat the wok to a medium heat and add the salt, stirring over the heat until it heats up and turns a greyish colour.
Remove to a bowl and add the five-spice powder and peppers. Mix well.
Heat enough oil to deep-fat-fry the squid in the wok. Plunge the squid into the hot oil for no more than a few seconds. Remove.
Pour off the oil, clean the wok and place over heat again.
Add one tablespoon of the salt and pepper mixture and return the squid to the wok. Over a medium heat, stir fry the squid for a couple of minutes, until the seasoning permeates the fish.
Place the remaining salt in a small bowl and serve with the hot squid.