Seven Good Reasons To Revel In Riesling:

Knappstein Clare Valley Riesling 1996/97 (selected outlets of Dunnes Stores, £6.99; also Oddbins)

Knappstein Clare Valley Riesling 1996/97 (selected outlets of Dunnes Stores, £6.99; also Oddbins). Unquestionably the bargain of the week, this tasty, well-made wine is the equal of many costing £2-3 more. Restrained on the nose, it's much more assertive on the palate - a tangy, flavoursome burst of grapefruit and lime. Very appealing.

Wakefield Promised Land Riesling, Clare Valley 1997 (selected Superquinns, some SuperValus, Pettitts, Roches Stores, many Cooneys Harolds Cross, Deveneys Dundrum, Kellys Artane, Ivans Limerick, O'Donovans Cork, Callans Dundalk and other outlets, usually £7.99).

I've praised the previous vintage of Wakefield Riesling, but this new one is better still (and not because I've been seduced by the smart new packaging). There's more of that curious but quintessential kerosene character, mingling with citrus and apple notes to create a light, zesty wine with lingering interest.

Pewsey Vale Eden Valley Riesling 1997 (Oddbins, £7.99). Lighter still and more floral, this exquisite wine at a zippity-do-dah price will make you think you've landed in the middle of a summer hedgerow. See Bottle of the Week.

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Wynns Riesling 1996/7 (Findlaters, Redmonds, Grapes of Mirth Rathmines, Duffys Terenure, Raheny Wine Cellar, Silver Granite Palmerstown, Vineyard Galway, Greens Berry Farm Shop Gorey, O'Donovans Cork, O'Connors SuperValu Castlebar and many other outlets, £7.50-£8.50). Light, lime-fresh, uncomplicated and very easy to get into . . . I've yet to pass it by at lunchtime in Eden.

Yarra Valley Hills Victoria Riesling 1996 (Oddbins, £8.99). From slightly warmer territory, this one is in the richer, more full-bodied style you'd expect. It's packed with the ripe flavours of tropical fruits, pineapple especially, yet still has enough acidity to be refreshing.

Heggies Eden Valley Riesling 1994 (Verlings, McCabes, Vintry Rathgar, Foleys Cabinteely, Grogans Ranelagh, Spar Ballybrack, Bradleys Cork, Fahys Ballina and other outlets, £9.50-£9.99). OK, I know I said Australian Rieslings should be drunk young or kept for at least five years, leaving this one in the no-man's-land of middle-age - but it's such a shining example that you can comfortably break the rules. Predominantly citrussy, but quite complex and beautifully balanced.

Goundrey Riesling, Mount Barker, 1995 (Mitchells Kildare St and Glasthule, £12.50) From the relative coolness of Western Australia, another stylish Riesling, in which ripe pineapple/lime/grapefruit flavours mingle with attractive minerally overtones.