RICK Stein is the latest chef to have been transformed into a superstar by the glare of television. You can become glib about this sort of celebrity, and imagine it distorts the true metier of a chef like Stein, who has spent a couple of decades at the stoves in his Padstow restaurant before being "discovered" by television. But one should not forget that Stein has paid his dues and, like Ken Hom, for example, he knows his onions more than most.
Except with Rick Stein, it is fish which he knows more than most, and his new book proves that in spades. Rick Stein's Seafood Odyssey is a silly title for a book full of good ideas, and here is a cracking one, from Galicia, for scallops, which our fish stalls are full of right now. If you can't get Serrano ham, finely sliced bacon will work almost as well.
Baked Scallops with Paprika, Serrano Ham and Crisp Breadcrumbs
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 red pepper, finely chopped
100g (4 oz) thinly sliced Serrano ham, finely chopped
5 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon paprika
50ml (2 fl oz) dry white wine
16 scallops, cleaned (shells reserved)
1 garlic clove, crushed
50g (2 oz) fresh white breadcrumbs (made from day-old bread)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 190C/375 F/Gas mark 5. Heat two tablespoons of the oil in a pan, add the onion and red pepper and cook gently for 25 minutes, stirring now and then. The object is to make them so soft they're almost melting. Stir in the ham, four tablespoons of the parsley, the paprika and wine and simmer for a few minutes until most of the liquid has been absorbed. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Rest eight cleaned scallop shells in a shallow baking tray. Place two scallops in each shell and spoon the ham mixture on top.
Heat the rest of the oil in a frying pan. Add the garlic, allow it to sizzle for a few seconds, then stir in the breadcrumbs and fry them, stirring all the time, for a few minutes until they are crisp and golden. Take the pan off the heat, stir in some seasoning and the rest of the parsley. Spoon the crumbs over the scallops and bake for 10 minutes. Serve immediately.