Has John Rocha taken up dancing with the mayfly? It appears that fishing themes may have inspired his autumn/winter collections. Take the deeply shaggy Irish-made handknitted cardigans and sweaters and the rope belts curling around a plain black dress.
There is warmth and softness, and a curiously old-fashioned feeling to it all. Coats in wool jersey and long-sleeved silk/ satin dresses are reminiscent of 1940s style.
The effect of turning the clock back to the war era introduces mysterious and intriguing clothes. "Sugar Plum Fairy" net skirts with lace embellishments haunt this strange romantic past and lace trimming abounds on many of the clothes.
The runaway favourite has been a black velvet/satin/georgette A-line skirt, a sophisticated patchwork item worn with a very plain matching top. And there is the practical black crepe trouser suit with the one-button jacket.
A cashmere overcoat in black or bitter chocolate, embellished with lace, and a cashmere skirt worn with a chiffon top, are more up to date. But it's the mixing of the hard elements with the soft that gives these outfits something thought provoking.
Leathers and suedes are beautifully handled: a blond sheepskin, with lavish wool edgings, comes in at the luxurious sum of £1,400.
There is nothing run of the mill about Rocha. The whiff of the 1940s is subtle. The oddness of antique lace and painted gossamer embellishments, the scattering of beading, the rustle of taffeta and the fairy-story look of net keeps one wondering. Yet this collection is contemporary and ready to be worn.
The complete autumn collection and Rocha's Waterford glass artefacts are on display in his newly acquired space in The Design Centre, Powerscourt Townhouse, Dublin.
With clothes like these it's important to see the whole range. Only then can the designer's intentions be understood.