BHUTAN: THE RECLUSIVE Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan, a land that strives for a gross national happiness index, reluctantly ends nearly a century of monarchial rule with its first parliamentary elections today.
Few, including the candidates from two rival parties aspiring for the 47-member national assembly, are happy with the transformation, content to live under the absolute monarchy put in place in 1907 by the British who then ruled neighbouring India.
They fear the move to democracy could lead to the corruption and confusion that prevails in adjoining south Asian countries.
"No one wants this election," assembly aspirant Yeshi Zimba said as he campaigned in the capital, Thimpu. "His majesty has guided us this far and people are saying there is no need for change."
Even after the polls, the date for which was set by astrologers, the majority of the 600,000 Bhutanese will continue to look to the 28-year-old, Oxford-educated King Jigme Keshar Namgyal Wangchuck for reassurance.
Revered by his people as a god, King Jigme, an eager basketball player and avid footballer, will remain head of state and retain much influence, although parliament will have the power to impeach him by a two-thirds majority.
"The political parties will always be under pressure, forced to live up to the people's expectations, because they had a very good experience with monarchy," tourism official Karma Chopel said.
Vying for office are the Druk Phuensum Tshogpa (DPT) or Bhutan Harmony Party - projected as frontrunners - and the People's Democratic Party, both of which draw candidates from the country's bureaucracy and other professional groups.
The DPT's election promise is to strive for "growth with equity and justice", while its rival's slogan is to work for the "well-being of everyone".
Campaigning has been muted, confined mostly to television appearances, neighbourhood meetings and house visits to woo the 319,000 registered voters, the majority of them women.
The tiny Buddhist kingdom has been preparing for democracy ever since King Jigme Singye Wangchuck abdicated in December 2006 in favour of his son, the current ruler, to enable him to oversee the transition in a country that had no political parties.
Mock polls featuring dummy parties with high school students as candidates took place last April to "educate" the population in casting their ballot.
These were followed by elections to the less powerful upper house of parliament, the national council, on New Year's Eve. Eleven of the 15 members elected were less than 40-years-old; the oldest was 46.
For decades Bhutan has remained resistant to change and the outside world, rarely letting in foreigners until recent years, fearing they would "pollute" its ancient culture and carefully preserved environment.
The king directed his poor but beautiful country gradually towards modernisation, taking selectively from the modern world - television came to Bhutan only in 1999 - and establishing a "gross national happiness" index that seeks to balance material progress with spiritual well-being, which he considers more important than gross domestic product.
Four years ago Bhutan became the world's only country to ban smoking anywhere in public and a dress code is mandated: a colourfully striped knee-length robe for men and an embroidered silk jacket with a wraparound skirt for women.