PARIS FASHION:Big names cut a dash in the front row to applaud the British designer's collection, writes DEIRDRE McQUILLAN, Fashion Editor in Paris
SITTING AMID more than 100 British fashion journalists at Stella McCartney’s show yesterday in the Palais de Tokyo, where celebrity guests included her father, Sir Paul, JK Rowling, Charlotte Rampling, Gwyneth Paltrow and Twiggy in the front row, it was not hard to feel the power of home support for this British designer in Paris.
McCartney’s business has been growing steadily and profits in her company rose 78 per cent to €1.95 million last year. Her line for H M was a sell-out four years ago, her collaboration with Adidas on sportswear continues to be successful, and November will see the debut of her collection for Gap Kids.
Known for her forthright environmental views and refusal to work with leather, the 38-year-old designer is now a well established fashion figure. Yesterday she delivered an assured collection, a true measure of her power in blending skilful tailoring with feminine flouin a sexy way.
A boyish jacket in stiff shantung worn with shorts and plunging white lace top was typical. Colours such as ivory, khaki or cobalt blue were cool and summery.
The same easygoing spirit was evident in wisteria print halterneck sundresses and in long languid button-back knits.
For the finale, she amplified the volume, enveloping her models in rose-printed, off-the-shoulder dresses, all bouncy pleats and ruffles, exuberantly colourful and coquettish.
The lovely prints at Dries Van Noten’s show have been a talking point.
His collection was a melding, he said, of three cities, Paris, Tokyo and Calcutta, three energies, three traditions and three crafts. So with fabrics commissioned from mills in more than six countries, he reworked Chinese silks, Indian silver brocades, ikat weaves and batiks into graceful, romantic but tailored shapes for sophisticated urbanites.
Silvered jackets with cigarette pants in batik prints, a sari wound artfully around the body or an inky indigo trenchcoat showed his ability to control this bold ethnic mix of pattern and colour.
“This was so different to anything we’ve seen in Milan where there were so many short lengths. It was so feminine, so beautiful and so colourful. He’s out on his own and not afraid to be different,” said Shelly Corkery, Brown Thomas buyer.
Tonight Alexander McQueen will break new ground by broadcasting his spring/summer catwalk show live on the internet for the first time ever in Paris. “What takes me three months to develop is shown in just 15 minutes to a very small audience. I wanted to create a sense of inclusion for all those interested in my work and in the world of fashion,” he said.
The Alexander McQueen live broadcast starts at 7.30pm on http://alexandermcqueenlive.showstudio.com