May means asparagus time, and sunshine time (hopefully) an equation which always makes me think of Co Wexford, the sunny south-east, where the asparagus growers are vigorous, talented and dedicated to their noble vegetable.
Frost has set back cultivation by a couple of weeks this year for the local crop, but the moment you see them in the shop - and I mean literally the moment, as asparagus deteriorates faster than any other vegetable - snap them up.
You can tell whether or not asparagus is fresh simply by snapping it. If it is fresh, the shoot will snap like a dry twig between your fingers: if not, it will bend like a fishing rod. This is a tip from Wexford chef Eugene Callaghan of La Marine Restaurant in Rosslare, who also advises that if you are not prepared to go to the effort of tying up the asparagus (and the main reason to do this is so that the fresh sprigs don't break) then simmer them in a frying pan rather than the traditional deep saucepan. When cooked, simply remove them with tongs.
One of my favourite ways to eat asparagus is Eugene's recipe for Grilled Asparagus And Oriental Mushrooms With Truffle Oil And Parmesan Shavings, a great recipe which manages to showcase the fresh asparagus while also pairing it with sublimely suitable partners. Here is how you do it.
Peel the asparagus up until the point where they turn a dark green - it is only as they lighten, says Eugene, that they become tough and stringy and need peeling. If the asparagus is very fresh then it will snap easily while being peeled, so (another of Eugene's tips) turn a large pan upside down, place the asparagus on it with the tip sticking over the edge and peel, so that the sprig will be supported while you peel.
Par-boil the asparagus in salted, boiling water until the point of a knife will enter the stalk. Drain the asparagus, lightly oil them with olive oil and then grill on a griddle pan until nicely charred. Lightly oil and then grill some oriental or continental mushrooms - if they are shittake or another dry mushroom, then blanch them first for a few seconds in boiling water (a mushroom like the grey girolle will have enough moisture not to be blanched).
To serve, place the grilled asparagus on the plate, place the mushrooms over or beside. Drizzle with white truffle oil and sprinkle over some freshly shaved Parmesan and ground sea salt and pepper.