At vintage time - which is right now, in the northern hemisphere - winemakers hover close to their bubbling creations with the same kind of rapt attention that enfolds new mothers in the delivery suite. A few months later, with the fledglings nicely settled, certainly they'll peel off their wellies and grape-stained T-shirts and get out and about - but in the meantime they'll rarely leave the cellar without a very good reason. Like sleep. Or a quick dash to Ireland for a supermarket promotion.
Last week, amazingly, not one, but four of Portugal's leading winemakers put on their good suits and flew into Dublin to help SuperValu launch its first national wine promotion. Vasco Pena Garcia of JP Vinhos, Antonio Guedes of Quinta da Aveleda, Pedro Vasconcelos e Sousa of Casa de Santar and Nuno Cancela de Abreu of Quinta da Romeira - gentlemen whose names sound even more complicated than Portugal's baffling native grapes - came to L'Ecrivain to talk about eight wines which will make a Portuguese splash in 168 SuperValus from next Monday until the end of the month - or while stocks last. Their presence was a stirring demonstration of interest both in the booming Irish market and in a supermarket chain which is working hard to raise its wine retailing standards.
"We don't want to be me-too retailers,' says SuperValu-Centra wine buyer Ian Lacey. "So we decided to choose Portugal for our first major promotion, rather than Chile or Australia - similar wines that you can find everywhere." This is a brave move, because the individualism that sets Portugal apart can act as a double-edged sword: although the wines taste distinctively different - joyful relief from Chardonnay and Cabernet - their sheer unfamiliarity can make them difficult to sell.
But Lacey and his buying partner, Colin Sheil, were sufficiently encouraged by their success over the past while with JP - the basic red and white at £3.99 and the smashing JP Regional at £5.99 - to forge ahead. As they rightly point out, Portugal offers such good quality at reasonable prices that their initiative is justified. Apart from the three JPs (which this column has recommended too many times already) and the two Portuguese wines listed below, others to look out for are Fiuza Sauvignon 1997 (£6.99 and, like the JPs, not exclusive to SuperValu), a hugely aromatic, nettley white made in the Ribatejo by the Australian Peter Bright, and the clove-scented Casa de Santar Dao 1996 (£5.99, SuperValu only). If the Portuguese wines sell as well as they deserve to, you'll soon see them in Centra shops, too.
Another supermarket bonanza starting on Monday is the Superquinn French Wine Sale. This is the third autumn that wine buyer Michael Donlon has taken advantage of Superquinn's links with the French supermarket giant, Casino (both companies belong to the same European marketing group) to bring in a big selection of French wines at special prices. This year, from the 400 wines Casino is offering its customers in its October sale, he has chosen about 60. "It's our biggest selection so far, and we've been able to bring in bigger quantities, too," Donlon points out. He has done his best, he says, to choose wines that will appeal to Irish palates. "Customers here want a somewhat softer style than is popular in France."
Certainly, the breadth of choice is remarkable, and value often indisputable - both in the 40 wines for general consumption and the 20 classics serious wine buffs may decide to cellar. In the first category, besides the wines listed below, you'll find a great many clarets from the respectable 1995 and 1996 vintages costing £7-£14 - each one a few pounds cheaper than it would be in the Irish market if Superquinn hadn't bought at the ex-cellars price offered to Casino. I rather liked Chateau Teyssier, Puisseguin Saint-Emilion, 1996 at £8.66 instead of £10.63, and Chateau Guiraud Peyrebrune, Cru Bourgeois, Medoc, 1995 at £8.76 rather than £11.28. Anybody on the hunt for modestly priced Gewurztraminer should give the Alsace 1996 example a whirl: the essential character is there for just £6.99. And the 1997 vintage of that Superquinn staple, Charles Vienot's Chablis, is also a good buy at £6.99.
As for the classics, I'd imagine any dedicated wine-lover with piggy bank funds to redeploy would be tempted by 1995s like Chateau La Lagune and Chateau Talbot (both just more than £39 instead of around £47). If that's too much to shell out, there is the attractive Margaux cru bourgeois Chateau Marsac Seguineau 1995 (£18.71 instead of £24). Conversely, if you're really loaded, Chateau d'Yquem 1990 comes at £279.85 - a saving of some £23, according to Superquinn's sums. Obviously, stocks of these high profile goodies are severely limited and will vanish long before the sale ends five weeks from today (November 7th).
Other October supermarket bargains to look out for include Dunnes Stores's £3.99 specials - a selection of a dozen wines reduced, for this month only, to that price. Among them are a soft, easy-drinking Corbieres, Chateau de Montrabech 1996, normally £4.69, and the popular, fruity Spanish red and white under the Solana label. Finally, Marks & Spencer, which has a white and red wine on special offer every month, comes up trumps this time with its red from the southern Rhone made by the Chateau de Beaucastel brothers, Jean-Pierre and Francois Perrin. See below.
Best October Offers
White
Quinta de Romeira Arinto, Bucelas, 1997 (exclusive to SuperValu Portuguese promotion, £5.99). If you like your white wines fresh but aromatic, try this Arinto for a change. It's fragrantly fruity with a nice citrus finish, and more than fairly priced.
Domaine des Groux Sancerre, Alphonse Mellot, 1997 (Superquinn French wine sale, £7.99; Irish rrp £10.80). I'm not sure that I would pay close to £11 for this Sancerre, but at under £8 it's a tempting proposition, combining green apple freshness with a smooth texture.
L de la Louviere, PessacLeognan, 1995 (Superquinn French wine sale, £11.98; Irish rrp £15.20). From the esteemed Lurton property in the Graves, a classy white Bordeaux with well-judged oak coming through in a long, spicy finish. It needs food. (If it's a pedigree red you're after, note the super red L de la Louviere 1996 is also on sale: £14.72 rather than £18.40)
Red
Domaine du Grand Bosc, Fitou, 1996 (Superquinn French Wine Sale, £4.99; Irish rrp £7.50). The 1994 was a hit last year and this one will be, too - a flavoursome mouthful of berries and spice with vegetal tones adding to the interest. A good buy for a fiver.
La Tour du Prevot, Cotes du Ventoux, 1996 (Marks & Spencer, down from £6.99 to £5.99 for October). M & S's best bottle of the month for months, to my mind - or maybe to my palate. Not unlike the Perrins's La Vieille Ferme - a steady seller in Ireland for years - this blend of southern French grape varieties is ripe and juicy with an assertive, peppery finish. Good autumn warmer, great price.
Tinta da Anfora, Vinho Regional de Alentejo, JP Vinhos, 1992 (now exclusive to SuperValu Portuguese promotion, £7.99). Don't let over-fastidious experts put you off this vintage with their claims that the 1991 was better (or that the 1995 will be, too). This distinctive, elegant red still has a lot to offer. See Bottle of the Week.
Courtet Laperre Madiran Grande Reserve, Vieilles Vignes, 1995 (Superquinn French wine sale, £8.31; Irish rrp £10.66). When did you last try Madiran? If the answer lies somewhere between never and you don't know when, seize this and see if you like it as much as I do. It's smooth at first, laden with vanilla, sweetly concentrated like dates; then oomph! you find you're contending with a massively structured, chewy mouthful. Wonderful - but not for wimps.
On The Grapevine:
The Vineyard in Galway is currently celebrating its fifth birthday with an anniversary sale which runs until October 11th. Lots of special offers, so now is the time to drop into this recently revamped shop and browse through a selection of wines that includes top producers from all over the world besides a small range of tasty direct imports from Bordeaux. Look out for Chateau Charron (£8.49)! 14 Mainguard Street, Galway, tel 091 561816/566094.
Emanuela Stucchi Prinetti of the fine old Tuscan estate Badia a Coltibuono is hosting a wine dinner in Fitzer's at the RDS, Ballsbridge on Tuesday October 13th. As the Coltibuono wines are impressive (six will be sampled), and Emanuela charming and great fun, it should be a thoroughly enjoyable evening. Tickets £55. Book via Findlaters, tel 01475 1699.