Chardonnays
Hill of Hope Unwooded Chard onnay, Hunter Valley, 1998 (Mitchells Kildare Street and Glasthule, £8.95). A smashing wine for any dinner party, and an interesting one to taste because it's much more subtle, light and elegant than most Aussie Chardonnays. Lovely ripe fruit, but also great freshness. A serious New World rival to mid-price Burgundy.
Louis Latour Montagny 1er Cru La Grande Roche 1996 (Carvills Camden Street, Deveneys outlets south Dublin, Higgins Clonskeagh, Redmonds Ranelagh, McCabes Merrion, Kellys Artane, Lord Mayor's Swords, Jus de Vine Portmarnock, Cheers-Gibneys Malahide, Vineyard Galway and other outlets, £11.49-£11.99). And here's a lovable Burgundy to taste alongside the Hunter Chardonnay - also with ripe, slightly honeyed fruit flavours, good acidity and a slightly nutty finish.
Cabernets
Vina Tarapaca Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 1995 (many SuperValus/Centras and independent off-licences, usually £7.99). Benchmark Chilean Cabernet, with lashings of cassis and vanilla and easy tannins. What's nice about this one is the long, quite savoury finish.
Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon, Clare Valley, 1997 (Superquinn, SuperValu, Centra, Roches Stores, Pettitts in south-east and many other outlets, usually about £8.49). Now the Australian Cab - chocolatey-rich, layered with spice and that hint of eucalyptus that always reminds me of gum trees. This Wakefield red gets better and better.
Chateau Cazebonne Graves 1995 (Searsons Monkstown, DeVine Wines Letterkenny, Wine Centre Kilkenny, usually about £10.95). Good Graves from a good year, with a silky texture and lovely, spicy, slightly mineral complexity: even if you have no intention of starting a wine club, buy this anyway and have a dinner party.
Edgewood Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1995 (selected branches Dunnes Stores, £11.99). A fascinating fusion of all the elements the other three display. See Bottle of the Week.