THERE are some fashion names achieve mass popularity almost instantaneously and others much more likely to develop a reputation by stealth. British label Jigsaw is definitely among the latter. A private company involved in the design, manufacture and retailing of women's clothing for the past 23 years, from an initial start in Hampstead, Putney and Richmond it has steadily grown to a current total of 34 shops.
Even before Jigsaw opened a Dublin shop in October 1994, it had already acquired a following among discerning Irish women who knew the label was reliable without ever being dull. There's nothing particularly flash about the clothes; they offer a low key, fuss free approach to dressing with widespread appeal just at the moment. It's based around the idea that you should be aware of current trends without being enslaved by them, keeping up with change but not necessarily taking the lead.
So for this season, Jigsaw is focusing on the importance of separates that look just as good together as on their own. That means efficient and effective pieces like the shirtdress in matte jersey or crepe de chine that can he worn with spring's shaped jackets, both short and long alike. Equally, it could be teamed with the newest coats which are almost like elongated jackets with top stitching on the seams and a covered front. These work handsomely with Jigsaw's latest trouser shapes which are either pencil slim or else stopping at the ankle with a gentle flare.
Conscious that contemporary women want manageable, versatile wardrobes stripped of any unnecessary detail, for the past few years the signature of each new Jigsaw collection has been its simplicity. At the moment, the focus is on sleek tailoring based on a handful of elements such as the mannish trouser suit and shirts cut close and skinny. While each season sees some pieces added, there are also staples which Jigsaw's designers carry over from one year to the next with only minimal alteration. So long term fans will still be able to find such basics as the ribbed poloneck sweater, the long slip and the floral print spaghetti strap dress.
Similarly, while there are some touches of brilliance to reflect the mood just now, colour remains based on the classics of black, grey, navy and white. Jigsaw's success with its customers is based on an ability to incorporate some, although never too many, elements each season. Right now, for example, the label is taking advantage of interest in fabric development to feature nylon lycra, viscose linen and cotton sateen, all of which add this season's signature sheen to garments.
The kind of sleek modernity evident in Jigsaw's clothing is also apparent in the company's approach to retail design. Many of the most recent outlets, including that on Dublin's Grafton Street, are the work of architect Nigel Coates. While understanding the Jigsaw ethos, he was able to take a different approach to each site because there has never been a standardised look adopted through all the branches.
This week sees the official launch of Jigsaw's latest addition, a flagship store on London's New Bond Street. Spread over two floors and selling womenswear only, the biggest Jigsaw shop yet has been designed by John Pawson whose last such commission was for Calvin Klein's shop which opened six months ago on Madison Avenue in New York. The hallmark of Pawson's work is a stripped back minimalism completely in tune with Jigsaw clothing. This is a style of understated dressing that suits women who want to be fashionable but not in an obvious way. With Jigsaw, they know they can find all the right pieces for the season ahead.