IF IT IS a truism that men's fashion registers little change from one season to the next, how much more is this the case for business wear. Men's clothing rarely alters because that's what the market wants; radical shifts in style would simply not be tolerated by most men. They want to feel comfortable and at ease with what they're wearing and thereafter pay no further attention to the matter.
This is particularly the case when clothes for work are under consideration. A good suit ought to be not just well constructed and hard wearing but also relatively unobtrusive in cut and colour. In the office, it's fine to look stylish but never ostentatious. Your contribution to the company rather than your personal appearance is what should draw approbation.
At this time of year, when many men will be planning to invest in a new suit for the winter ahead, it's helpful to bear these points in mind. There used to be something of a cult among businessmen for immoderately loud ties, the idea being that these allowed an outlet for individuality which was otherwise kept suppressed. Actually, the only thing these garish strips of cloth suggested was at poor sense of colour. It really ought to be possible to look well in the workplace without depending on ties as a form of personal expression.
While these photographs were being taken last week, our model Julian commented more than once how well he felt wearing such good clothes (he was visibly reluctant to part with several of the items). When it comes to suits, paying for the best quality brings rewards; not only will the garments last longer but, like our model, you'll feel better than if you had bought a cheaper suit. All the clothes shown here come from FX Kelly, a family run business founded in 1948. The Grafton Street shop, which this year has undergone a redesign costing £250,000, carries many labels which specialise in first rate suits, in particular Italian names such as Ermenegildo Zegna, Hilton and Milan based designer Giorgio Armani, as well as German giant Hugo Boss.
Italians have for a long time made menswear their forte. Not only have the likes of Zegna and Armani invested heavily in creating new fibres and fabrics, they have also sought to discover fresh techniques to ensure clothes hang better on the body. The yarns they use are lighter and more durable than any on the market before now and it's worthwhile trying these because their breathability makes them ideal for an air conditioned and centrally heated office.
Soft drape has become a feature of Italian suiting but that doesn't mean the clothes hang badly. Irish men very often choose to wear suits, particularly double breasted styles, which are too large for them. They look overwhelmed by their own clothes.
TAKING the trouble to make sure the suit has a close, neat fit will have long term advantages not least because the wearer feels more relaxed in his dress. While the jacket may fall lightly along the lines of the torso, it ought to fit snugly on the shoulders. At the moment, the most fashionable silhouette is a fairly tight one. That means that the whole line of the suit follows the body closely. Shoulders are square but narrow, the old box shape of the last decade has long since been discarded. The three button single breasted jacket is now the most popular choice, although there are some higher fastening four button examples and double breasted suits have not been entirely relinquished by a small band of loyal followers. Flat fronted trousers continue the same shape, but many men - especially those who are carrying weight around their stomach - find this style uncomfortable, so single or double pleats are also offered.
For this winter, chalk and pinstripes are in the ascendant that vertical line accentuates the narrow elongated silhouette of the moment. Obviously dark colours are most suitable for suits. They're less prone to showing dirt and look sharper. Anyone who is investing in a new suit should bear in mind that it will last longer if treated with care. That means not wearing it on successive days, so that the fabric is allowed to breathe and relax. Follow these rules and both you and your suit are sure to look well in the office not just this season but for many more to come.