THIS page has welcomed many new names in Irish fashion over the past few years, and watched with delight their subsequent successful progress. It is a pleasure, therefore, at the start of 1997 to introduce another young designer who seems certain to attract a loyal following during the next 12 months.
Andrea Cleary (25) from Carlow studied fashion at the National College of Art and Design, and was one of the particularly talented group of graduates in 1993 which also included Marc O'Neill, fabric designer Ciaran Sweeney and stylist Paula Hughes.
Like so many others, immediately after finishing her studies, Cleary left the country, heading for New York where she spent a year concentrating on new fabric technology and focusing on future trends in colour and design. She gained work experience with a fashion forecast company and with Tripp NYC, which specialises in contemporary clubwear.
Returning to Ireland, she entered a postgraduate development programme for designers funded by FAS - a one year course that including a period of study in the Scottish College of Textiles and a six month business placement, in her case with the Max Pierre womenswear label. Afterwards she spent some time with Nicky Wallace collaborating on a line for women before deciding she needed to start out on her own. The first range carrying her name - some of which was shown at last autumn's Shannon Design Show - will be on sale in Ireland in coming months.
Given Andrea Cleary's interest in new fabrics, it's surprising to discover that cotton and linen predominate in her debut collection. The cotton is a light shirt weight and is frequently doubled to give the garment more substance. In addition, by using contrasting colours - most often turquoise or navy with lime green - Cleary gives the clothes an immediate interest. Superficially, her shapes are very simple short sleeved shirts and shirt dresses; tunic tops (which could be worn as mini dresses); and long, lean square necked dresses. In fact, the cutting shows considerable sophistication.
Thanks to her well honed technical skill, Cleary often places darts in unexpected places on the bust and, for one navy cotton cap sleeved dress, has a single panel moving from the top of the ribs at the front around to meet another single panel which runs down the centre of the back. Where there are collars, these are one piece - far less easy to manage than the more customary two piece style - and her tunic tops have panels which flare gently from elbow to wrist.
ASIDE from cotton and linen, the other fabric she favours is chiffon, often printed with a swirling abstract pattern in a shade of deep aubergine on a navy background. Pieces include a round necked cap sleeve tunic with asymmetrical single button at the back and a deep handkerchief hemline.
There are also a number of printed chiffon scarves and certain to be one of the most popular items in the collection - a cropped navy top with flared sleeves and square neck. Teamed with a full length sleeveless jersey A line dress, this is sure to be a popular choice for wedding guests over the summer.
With the release later this year of Jane Campion's film Portrait Of A Lady, Cleary's most spectacular garment could prove a best seller; a full length raincoat in Prussian blue water resistant nylon with the sheen of satin, it is fitted on the shoulders and then flares out from the bust, thanks to a double pleat at the back and darts at the front placed around mid armhole. Sleeves are bell shaped with an open vent at the wrists.
By sticking to a limited palette of deep blues and greens and working within a tight number of shapes, Andrea Cleary has produced a debut collection which is both versatile and distinctive. Her clothes are low key but by no means invisible; they have enough presence to leave a lasting impression.
Items from the range - in price from around £80 to £330 - have been taken by an encouraging number of shops in Ireland and, all being well, she plans to produce two collections per year, while also accepting some individual commissions. Any young designer embarking on a solo career deserves support and in Andrea Cleary's case, thanks to her evident talent and drive, purchasers of the clothes are bound to find their support well rewarded. Here is another Irish design name to watch.