1. 10.30 a.m.: board ferry at Pier 3, Kadikoy, and chug up the Bosporus, under suspension bridges, past Sultans' palaces like Buckingham palace-on-sea, to Rumeli Kavagi for lunch
2. 4 p.m.: stroll through Spice market, stocking up on cloves, peppercorns and saffron, passing on aphrodisiacs
3. 8 p.m.: dinner at the waterfront restaurant, Olimpyat, at Karakoy. Great view of the boats and city by night. Good food, about £25 sterling
4. 11 p.m.: idle along Istiklal Cad, centre for bars, nightclubs, cinemas and restaurants. Wind up at the Gramofon Cafe, near the top of the funicular, where a combo plays free jazz, nigh on extinct everywhere else but Istanbul
5. 10 a.m.: head for Aya Sofya
6. Noon: nip down to Kadikoy by tram for fresh fish sandwich sold at quayside, before tackling Topkapi Palace
7. 4 p.m.: go barefoot into the Blue mosque, and sit in the courtyard listening to the muezzin
8. 6 p.m.: visit Turkish bath and, lulled into acquiescence, buy Turkish rug in shop opposite for £40. No idea if it's a bargain or a rip-off, but I like it
9. 8.30 p.m.: Dogan restaurant for dinner, one of a dozen or so. Capariz Sk, Kumkapi, serenaded by brilliant gypsy musicians - violinist, drummer and autoharpist - expecting handsome reward
10. 11 p.m.: orange tea at cafe near Cankurtaran station where a dozen blokes are playing Okay (like rummy with tiles) at greenbaize tables.