Friendly Giants

Fetzer

Fetzer

Californian biggie, now part of BrownForman, which has retained something of the decent, hardworking Fetzer family feel. The top range, Bonterra, is organic; the lesser wines are moving towards that goal. Ripe, sunny flavours. Try:

Fetzer Echo Ridge Sauvignon Blanc, Mendocino 1998/9 (widely available, £7.99 - £8.49) - a summery mouthful of tropical fruit, commendably lighter and fresher than the old Fume Blanc.

Errazuriz

READ MORE

Small compared to Chile's mammoth Concha y Toro, this thoroughly professional outfit is nevertheless big enough to have made an energetic impact on the Irish market. Consistently well-made, attractive wines, from the basics up to the top Cabernet, Don Maximiano, and Sena, the new flagship red co-parented with Mondavi. Try: Errazuriz Merlot, Curico 1999 (widely available, usually £7.99) - explosively fruity, mouthwateringly juicy - very quaffable indeed.

Penfolds

The central plank in Australia's biggest wine company, Southcorp. Vast volumes, yet quality is constant, especially in the reds which run from simple Rawson's Retreat up through Bin 389 and Bin 707 to the mighty Grange, Australia's most revered wine. Try: Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon, South Australia 1997 (widely available, usually about £9.49) - a big, spicy smoothie: see Bottle of the Week.

Perrin Estates

In the southern Rhone, the Perrin Brothers are building an empire around the belief that organic grapes make tastier wines at every price level. Labels, working upwards: La Vieille Ferme, Perrin Reserve, Coudoulet de Beaucastel, Chateau de Beaucastel - and La Tour du Prevot in Marks and Spencer is theirs as well. Try: La Vieille Ferme, Cotes du Luberon 1998 (widely available, usually £6.99) - a full-flavoured, smooth-textured white, all peaches and pears.

Torres

Mentioned last week, I know - but Torres earns its place here as the biggest family-owned winery in Spain, and still one of the most dynamic. Cabernet stars in Gran Coronas and elegant Mas La Plana, but Spanish grapes steal the show in the stalwart below and the all-Catalan Grans Muralles. Try: Torres Gran Sangre de Toro, Penedes 1996 (widely available, £8.99£9.49) - warm, rich, spicy and very, very Spanish.

Antinori

Around since 1385, but the latest phase of family history is the most significant: the soft-spoken current Marchese, Piero Antinori, has driven a quality revolution in Tuscany over the past 20 years. Wines reliable at the lower end; stupendous in the upper stratae, with SuperTuscans Tignanello and Solaia. Try: Santa Cristina, Toscana, Antinori, 1998 (widely available, £6.99-£7.29) - not one of your thin, bitter Italian cheapies: this is a nice, rounded mouthful.