LONDON FASHION Week, which this season celebrates its 25th birthday, opened yesterday in bright sunshine in its palatial new location, Somerset House on the Embankment, the city's most outstanding 18th-century public building, writes
DEIRDRE McQUILLANIn London
The event got off to a head start literally with a showcasing by celebrated British milliner Stephen Jones of the country’s new wave of emerging London hatmakers before being officially declared open by Harold Tillman, chairman of the British Fashion Council and the mayor of London, Boris Johnson.
“This is the most creative city in the world and fashion is the second-largest employer in the UK. London Fashion Week sets trends and establishes reputations” said Mr Tillman.
Standing beside model Erin O’Connor, Johnson described himself as “the worst-dressed person in the UK facing incontestably the most intimidating, glamorous and nerve wrackingly tall audience”.
But he pointed out that the UK fashion industry generated not only designers and intellectual property but also £3.8 billion worth of goods.
“Our ability to sell in defiance of all economic logic, that restless entrepreneurial flair will help to lead this city out of recession,” he said to loud cheers.
A notable feature of this season is that a number of designers and British companies have been lured back from New York to show in their native city like Matthew Williamson, Jonathan Saunders and most notably Burberry which has now entered the FTSE index of 100 top global brands.
Many exhibitors are opting for still life or digital presentations rather than catwalk shows. Irish designer Orla Kiely is one of them. Her business grew by 17 per cent last year and she continues to expand into other areas of design.
Paul Costelloe kicked off the event for the sixth consecutive year showing menswear for the first time, a collection of languid colonial-style linen suits in cool colours with colourful shirts, cardigans and soft scarves.
His womenswear was more structured and couture in spirit with a new emphasis on ultra-wide shoulders. “It’s not for the fainthearted”, he said.
John Rocha shows this morning.