Italian wines are food wines, it's often claimed - a little too austere to guzzle on their own. So what are they doing here, when we all know hours may elapse before there's any hope of food? D'Istinto Catarratto- Chardonnay, Sicilia, 1998 (many SuperValu's, Pettitt's in south-east and many independent off-licences countrywide, £5.49-£5.99) and D'Istinto Nero d'Avola, Sangiovese, Sicilia, 1997 (same outlets, same price) are new-wave Italians, with New World influence. That means more fruit, more easy charm. The white is slightly peachy and amazingly delicious; the red a cocktail of ripe berries and herbs, with a rustic edge that comes as a relief in these polished times. I'd almost will the fire not to light, in order to drink vast quantities of both . . .