IF you want something (a) fashionable, (b) wonderfully drinkable, (c) turkey-friendly and (d) so well priced that you can afford lots for that big crowd around the table, you won't do better than Tyrrell's Old Winery Pinot Noir, South Eastern Australia, 1998 (Redmonds Ranelagh; Crowe's SuperValu, Raheny; Caulfield SuperValu Hypermarket, Waterford; SuperValu, Eyre Square, Galway; SuperValu, Clonakilty; Cheers-Gibneys Malahide; Londis, Carrick-on-Shannon and other outlets, usually £7.99). Trendy New World Pinot usually costs twice as much - and doesn't necessarily offer as much easy pleasure.
At most Christmas tables, there will be somebody who'd prefer to drink white wine with their turkey than red - and no harm in that. Lay in an extra bottle or two of Chablis Premier Cru Vau-Ligneau, Domaine Alain Geoffroy, 1998 (Oddbins, £13.99), and the problem's sorted. This well-made grower's Chablis is fresh enough for fishy starters, it has a smooth, creamy follow-through that makes it work equally well with turkey. Anyone who's prepared to swallow the Shiraz argument will be handsomely rewarded by St Hallett Old Block Shiraz, Barossa Valley, 1995 (Dunnes Stores major branches, £15.99) - turkey knows no better friend. This is an outstanding Shiraz from a winery that believes in old vines and traditional methods; it's beautifully balanced, with spice and bitter chocolate tones and a long, satisfying finish.
Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 1997 (selected Superquinns; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Bennetts, Howth; McCabes, Blackrock; Kellys, Artane; Old Stand, Mullingar; Kellys Next Door, Longford; SuperValu, Athlone and other outlets, about £20). French classicists should love this stunner from the Southern Rhone, with its heady perfume and warm, spicy concentration. A winner all the way.