Talk about excitement! Apart from those outstanding Australian Semillons described some weeks ago, Domaine Zind Humbrecht Riesling Wintzenheim, Alsace, 1997 (outlets above, about £15) is probably the most delectable under £20 white wine I've come across this year. It has so much body and flavour that every mouthful seems to last for 15 minutes - yet it dances gossamer-light across the tongue.