Here's the Guibert recipe for Moulin de Gassac Albaran, Vieilles Vignes, Vin de Pays de l'Herault, 1997 (O'Briens Fine Wines, £7.75) and the other tasty wines in the affordable `Terrasses' series. Select the oldest vineyards on the best terroirs, make your wine gently the old-fashioned way . . . and taste the difference. Velvety, spicy Albaran - easy to drink but never boring - is a winner.