IF you want to sample the velvety smoothness and dark chocolate richness that lie so close to Coonawarra's red heart without denting the drink budget too severely, try Jamieson's Run Coonawarra Red 1994 (widely available, outlets above, £8.99-£9.99). Since it was launched 10 years ago to mark the company centenary (it's named after the original property), this alluring red wine from the sizeable Mildara-Blass group has built up a huge following. It's Cabernet Sauvignon, helped along by Shiraz, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Merlot in varying proportions, and treated to a final few months in American oak to give it a sweet, spicy finish. Easy to drink when young, but it keeps for yonks. A modern Australian classic.