Having just opened Dublin's first Irish-language cafe, Dail Bia, Sinead Ni Fhlanagain finds herself a busy woman. Only recently, she was choosing her plates and cutlery. This week, she is serving food on them and, believe it or not, is already filling her diary with bookings for Christmas.
"It's a big challenge," she says, which must rank as one of the century's understatements. Ni Fhlanagain, having taken a career-break from teaching, is chef, manager and general trouble-shooter for Dail Bia on Dublin's Kildare Street. She freely admits it has been a steep learning curve - although one she has relished, if you'll pardon the pun.
"I've always had an interest in food and business. You get a tremendous buzz from providing a service people enjoy," she says. Initially, she plans to open from 7.30 a.m to 7 p.m. Monday to Friday and from 9.30 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Saturdays. In that time she will be busy preparing breakfasts, lunches and, no doubt, countless cups of tae. The food has an Irish emphasis. "Looking at the natural ingredients we have in the country and trying to incorporate them into new ideas," is how she sums up her idea of good cooking.
"The food will be ethnically Irish food with a twist from all the countries I have visited. I'm very interested in the nutritional balance of food as well. The food will be tasty, look appealing and be good for you. I'll be trying to use wholesome ingredients, organic where possible," she says.
Ni Fhlanagain has visited north America, Australia, the Far East and, of course, continental Europe - that should provide a twist on the humble spud and cabbage.
And the natural and everyday ingredients prepared in a way that excites the taste buds result in marmalade scones, muesli rock-buns, black-pudding breakfasts, two "special" soups each day, salads, baguettes (freshly baked on the premises) with speciality cheeses, cream seafood bake, creamed turnip, stuffed onions with spinach and parmesan . . .
Of course, no one likes to see anyone speaking with their mouth full but if you do feel the urge to converse, you can do so in Irish. The language is important to the overall atmosphere of the place. "I'm hoping people will want to come in to hear the Irish, to listen to it. There will be a `failte' for everybody but you don't have to have Irish. If people leave just saying `Slan' I'll be absolutely thrilled," she says.
The cafe is the brainchild of Comhdhail Naisiunta na Gaeilge, the co-ordinating body of voluntary Irish-language organisations in the State. Its aim was to provide a comfortable place where people who spoke Irish (even if only the cupla focal) could come together in the city centre and chat over a cup of coffee or meet for lunch. They raised £50,000 and this was matched by the Department of Arts, Heritage, Gaeltacht and Islands.
From the look of the place, the money has been well spent. Under the headquarters of Comhdhail at the bottom of Kildare Street, the ash floors and naked stone make for a curiously warm feel. The chairs and tables are also ash and the restaurant can seat 40 people at any one time - you can also order take-aways. The really busy can fax orders in.
Further good news is that Dail Bia is licensed to sell wine, which just leaves the question: what's the Irish for "Bon appetite"?
Dail Bia, 46 Kildare Street (beside the Earl of Kildare pub). Tel: 01 6706079