Stella McCartney’s presentation was a show of awesome athletics, writes Deirdre McQuillan, Fashion Editor, in London
FASHION AND sport collided yesterday at London Fashion Week with Stella McCartney’s collection for Adidas, a successful hybrid collaboration now in its third year. In a recreated “Stella’s Gym”, the presentation took the form of a display of awesome athletics by young sportswomen, notably two on a trampoline showcasing contoured swimwear, while others whacked rackets in cute racer-back tennis dresses edged with lace or swung on a balance beam in soft grey leggings and tank tops. Present with the designer were two Olympic medallists.
Three runners on a treadmill looked glamorous in lightweight green, white or black ruched hoodies and skintight metallic leggings – McCartney’s skill is such that she can even make golf wear for women look fresh and modern. Sport and fashion coexist comfortably and commercially these days, a fact highlighted by the V A’s current exhibition, Fashion versus Sport, exploring the creative connections between the two worlds.
Paul Smith often makes playful references to sportswear in his collections, though they were only occasionally present in his spring offerings shown in Claridges – like a tennis skirt and blazer worn with long wet hair and a tartan scarf slashed around the waist or tied, Taliban-style, around the head. From gypsy print dresses, to baggy trousers and bib-fronted maxi dresses, the collection had a certain offhand bohemianism, but some pieces like a pleated bib- fronted dress and black cutaway jacket were clever if conventional takes on traditional male evening attire.
Prints also featured in Nicole Farhi’s show which was pretty and painterly, taking its inspiration from Monet watercolours which spilled from dresses in tiny pleats into cardigans, many jewelled and embroidered. It was graceful, delicate and never too flowery with candy-striped bras worn over T-shirts, tulle leggings and “beekeeper” straw hats adding a bit of French eccentricity to the garden motifs.
Once famous for raincoats and suits, Aquascutum is a British heritage brand currently undergoing a radical transformation, but yesterday’s collection failed to ignite with its cold parade of trenchcoats and stringy dresses in various shades of blue decorated with unnecessary pleats, frills and flounces.
In contrast, Emma Cook’s wonderful vinyl raincoats studded with colourful Swarovski crystal and tiered dresses were far more exciting and stylish than this dull, insipid parade.