White:
Gascony in southwest France is a marvellous region to visit, with underplayed wines such as Madiran and Jurancon and food treats like foie gras. Get in the mood with Cotes de Gascogne 1997 (Marks & Spencer, £4.99). See Bottle of the Week.
Burgundy remains top of the list for connoisseurs - but even they may need good advice in order to unearth affordable gems such as Givry, Domaine Joblot, 1996 (Burgundy Direct, £11.75 if you buy a case, which can be mixed). A terrifically assertive white Burgundy, with pungent mineral character, some smoky oak and superb overall balance.
Alsace, said to be the prettiest place of all, is where I'm going this August - lured by wines of dazzling power and finesse. Riesling Kastelberg Grand Cru, Marc Kreydenweiss, 1996 (Terroirs, £25), one of the stars at a recent Alsace tasting in Dublin, is a thrilling example - to enjoy now or stash away for years.
Rose
The Loire still offers exceptional wines at exceptional prices - but not for long, so move fast - if not to France then to snap up a bottle of Domaine Charles Joguet Chinon Rose 1997 (McCabes, Verlings, Terroirs, about £10.50). From a leading Chinon producer, it's rose with an exquisitely lively, herbaceous edge.
Red
The South Of France pours its sunny nature into chunky, rich, personality-packed reds - but few at under £6 offer such concentrated flavours as Chateau de Nages, Costieres de Nimes, 1996 (Oddbins Baggot St and Blackrock, £5.99). A peppery, chocolately blend of Syrah and Grenache with an earthy edge, it's a super Rhone substitute from the Languedoc.
Bordeaux attracts Irish wine lovers by the thousand, with its Wine Geese connections and unspeakably grand chateaux. The problem, increasingly, is to track down decent claret at a fair price - but not if you choose Chateau Meaume Bordeaux Superieur 1995 (Molloys, some Superquinns, Verlings, Sweeneys Dorset St and Fairview, Cheers Malahide, Mortons Ranelagh, Magic Carpet Cornelscourt, Vineyard Galway, Egans Drogheda, Old Stand Mullingar, Portlaoise Wine Vault and many other outlets countrywide). Lovely concentrated, lingering flavours for the money.
Tuscany is my idea of heaven - but it's worth exploring beyond Chianti. Parrina Riserva 1995 (Waterford Wine Vault, McCabes, Mill Wine Cellar Maynooth, usually about £9£10) comes from a tiny little zone close to the west coast, dubbed the California of Tuscany because it's capable of producing wines with richer, broader flavours. Taste this spicy, smoky stunner and see why.