The terrain on Clare Island might be rough, but on a clear day the panoramic views from Knockmore mountain are breathtaking, writes Francis Bradley
HAVE YOU EVER seen the National Lottery draw when the balls are whirling around in that machine? That's what it felt like.
We were travelling across the stretch of water between Roonagh and Clare Island, and the waters at the mouth of Clew Bay were making a point. I've done this trip a few times, but on this occasion we were being fairly knocked about. To make matters worse, a fine drizzle and cloud enveloped the whole island. The journey only takes 15-20 minutes, so this particular purgatory didn't last long.
Clare Island is situated at the entrance of Clew Bay and is the largest of the 365 islands in the bay. The island is about seven kilometres long and 4½ kilometres wide at its widest point.
Knockmore mountain (462m), to the west of the island, dominates the landscape, with the smaller Knocknaveen (223m) overlooking the harbour. The only sandy beach on the island is beside the harbour.
The circuit of Clare Island starts at the harbour and, obviously, being a loop walk, you can go in either direction. On this occasion we headed west and passed by Granuaile's Castle, former stronghold of Grace O'Malley, the 16th-century pirate queen.
This walk is characterised by two long road sections - at the start, and on the return from the lighthouse at Lecknacurra - but the island location makes up for it.
We were facing into a 5½km road walk and, while it is tolerable when the sun is out, in foul weather it's a bit of a chore. It may be possible to arrange a lift to cover this section - have a word with the ferryman. To lighten the load, I was able to impress my companions with my extensive local knowledge - pointing into the moist, grey fug surrounding us, I indicated the approximate locations of Croagh Patrick, Mweelrea, Knockmore and so on.
Halfway along the road we passed the newly restored 13th- century Cistercian abbey that holds the remains of Grace O'Malley. O'Malley's BB, Cois Abhainn, marks the end of the road, and a prominent track nearly opposite the BB led us up the western slopes of Knockmore. As we gained the crest, the sea cliffs began to reveal themselves.
Turning in a northeasterly direction, we continued up the shoulder of Knockmore. Keeping well away from the dramatic cliffs on our left, we first encountered a large stone cairn, and, further on, the summit of Knockmore, which is marked by a trig point. On a clear day the panoramic views are breathtaking and you would be able to see the lighthouse at Lecknacurra - the next objective on our walk. As we descended from Knockmore we passed an "escape route" at point 219m, indicated on the Ordnance Survey (OS) sheet. This is an old bog road, and would bring you safely off the mountain.
We negotiated the generally lumpy terrain between Knockmore and the lighthouse, where we had a well-earned break.
Our final four kilometres to the harbour was entirely by road. By the time we reached the pier the wind had dropped and the rain had moved away. The upper slopes of Knockmore began to peep out from their mantle of cloud - tempting us to go back up.
Variation: from O'Malley's BB, you can continue west and northwest on a fine track as far as a signal tower that stands proudly on the western headland. From here, you turn your back on the US and start a very stiff climb up Knockmore.
O'Malley Ferries, 098-26976, 086-6000204, www.omalleyferries.com.
The Clare Island Ferry Company, 098-28288, 086-8515003, www.clareislandferry.com. See www.discoverireland.iewalking for details of more loop walks
Start and finishThe harbour on Clare Island.
DistanceAbout 16km
TimeFour to five hours, depending on fitness, enthusiasm, weather.
MapsOrdnance Survey map OS30.
SuitabilityA moderate walk that requires care along the cliffs. It is probably a bit long for young children. Know how to read a map and use a compass (a prerequisite for all walkers on all standards of walks). Dress appropriately and bring along drinks and snacks - particularly for children - and don't litter.
Accommodation and refreshmentsThere are a number of BBs. Liquid refreshments can be found in the community centre near the harbour, where food is also available. The only other bar is in the Bay View Hotel, which is under reconstruction following a fire - accommodation will not be available here until 2009.