The tiny Greek island of Skiathos was the location for the movie 'Mamma Mia'. Brian Blakefound it to be an unspoiled sun seeker's delight
FEATURING AS THE backdrop in a Hollywood blockbuster can hold mixed fortunes for a holiday location.
Sometimes, it can give publicity to an area, bringing often much-needed cash revenue as visitors flock there in increasing numbers.
Then again, it can change the nature of the destination forever, turning it from a sleepy backwater into a tourist hotspot.
Indeed, some travel correspondents have been tempted to keep their favourite destinations a secret for fear they will be swamped by the very people they write for.
The Greek islands of Mykonos and Kefalonia were exposed to the mass tourist market by Shirley Valentine, starring Pauline Collins and Tom Conti, and Captain Corelli's Mandolin, with Nicolas Cage and Penelope Cruz.
The same fate could now await another Greek location, Skiathos in the Sporades group of islands, where scenes from Mamma Mia, starring Meryl Streep, Colin Firth and our very own Pierce Brosnan, were filmed.
Skiathos is a tiny island, measuring just 13km long by 10km wide, with a population of around 4,000 which swells to more than 60,000 during the height of the season, so it's hard to see where the extra visitors would fit in.
Its size and the low-rise nature of tourist development there could be a blessing in disguise for the location, as these factors will help it to maintain the very things that made it such an appealing destination in the first place.
As a sun-holiday location, Skiathos is hard to beat. It has everything that sun-worshippers need - plenty of sun, acres of sandy beaches, a long and winding shopping street and some nice restaurants and bars.
And if you fancy taking in the nearby islands of Skopelos and Alonissos, they are just a short boat ride away, during which you will get the chance - if you're lucky - to see seals and dolphins as you sail through the nearby marine park.
In terms of crowds and weather, it's probably best to plan your visit during June and early July or in September when the tourist numbers are generally smaller and the temperature, which can climb into the late-30s at the height of the season, is a good deal cooler.
Of all the beaches we visited - and there are more than 60 of them on Skiathos - our favourite was Megalos Aselinos on the north side of the island where we happily whiled away the hours, sunbathing, swimming and generally doing as little as possible.
As is often the case with holiday locations, we discovered this idyllic location on a boat trip, which left from the harbour in Skiathos town and circumnavigated the island, by far the best way to see some of the more remote parts of the coastline.
A barn-like beach taverna on the beach there, which looked more like the venue for some serious line-dancing than a restaurant, served an array delicious food, including fresh fish.
Somewhat surprisingly for a tourist destination, the restaurants in Skiathos town itself were something of a hit-and-miss affair. We spent our first few days on the "miss" end of the equation.
And it wasn't just us. Other holidaymakers staying in the same apartments voiced similar stories - some had even given up and decided to cook in for much of their stays.
First, there was the restaurant with the beautiful sea views that promised an oven-baked fish dish which, when it arrived, was as cold as if taken straight from the fridge.
Then there was the one where the waiter, upon being told we weren't happy with our food, informed us that he would decide what we were paying for, not us.
And the time we watched in bemused amazement as a young waiter mixed white and red wine before delivering it to our table as the carafe of rosé we'd ordered.
It appeared that the usual trade-off was in operation; restaurants with the sea views served poorer food, those a few streets back offered better fare, with a few honourable exceptions (see panel on where to eat).
However, a word with a very helpful courier, who confirmed she had heard the same tale of woe from other holidaymakers, pointed us in the right direction and, from there on in, it was all plain sailing.
Although the bus service serving the main resorts on the developed side of the island is excellent - one every 20 minutes or so - you really need to hire a car to get to the more remote beaches or the hilly interior, from where panoramic views are breathtaking.
But be careful. Many of the roads deteriorate into nothing more than dirt tracks with little notice, so it's worth spending the extra few euro on a jeep if you intend to seek out the more out-of-the-way spots.
If you just want to while away a few hours, try Milos taverna less than a kilometre from the island's tiny airport and get a hair-raising view of the planes arriving on flight days. The bar even has seen fit to erect a timetable of arrival and departure times for its customers.
At night, head to the harbour in Skiathos town where you can indulge in a spot of people-watching or enjoy a show at the Bourtzi, a former Venetian fortress which features an open-air theatre and cultural centre.
There's more to the Skiathos than you'll see in Mamma Mia, but the movie does give you a taste of what you can expect when you get there . . . as long as you're not waiting for the locals to burst into Dancing Queen at the drop of a hat.
www.skiathos.gr
Go there
Since the collapse of XL Airways, there are currently no direct flights from Ireland to Skiathos.
Aer Lingus (www.aerlingus.com) fly to Athens from where you can get a connecting flight to Skiathos on Olympic airlines (www.olympicairlines.com). Alternatively, First Choice (www.firstchoice.co.uk), Thomsonfly (www.thomsonfly.co.uk) , Monarch (www.monarch.co.uk) and Olympic airlines operate services from UK airports. See websites for details
Where to stay, eat, go and shop when visiting Skiathos
Where to stay
Poseidon apartments, Megali Ammos, 00-30-24-27-02-1882. Family-run accommodation perched on a steep hill above Skiathos town, with panoramic views of Megali Ammos beach.
Mandraki Village, Koukounaries, 00-30-24-27-04-9301. Low-rise development, 200m from the beach, surrounded by landscaped gardens, 12km from Skiathos town.
Filokalia Studios and Apartments, Achladies, 00-30-24-27-02-2598. Family-run establishment on a hillside location seven minutes walk to the beach and 10 minutes by bus or car to Skiathos town.
Hotel Esperides, Achladies, 00-30-24-27-02-2245, www.esperidesbeach.gr. Four-star establishment overlooking the sea with access to the beach where a water taxi operates a regular service to Skiathos town, 4km away.
Skiathos Princess, Agia Paraskevi, 00-30-24-27-04-9731, www.skiathosprincess.com. Five-star hotel 7km from Skiathos town, set in extensive gardens with direct access to the beach at Agia Paraskevi.
Where to eat
Kostas Taverna, Old Port, Skiathos, 00-30-24-27-02-2242. Very friendly family-run restaurant, on elevated position overlooking Skiathos harbour. Ask about the daily specials.
Taverna Asprolithos, Skiathos town (behind the high school). Tel: 00-30-24-27-02-1016. Wide range of Greek and international dishes, friendly service in an open courtyard setting at the top of the town.
Alexandros Taverna, Skiathos (old quarter), 00-30-24-27-02-2431. In a tiny cobbled street under the spreading branches of an old mulberry tree, serving traditional dishes, with live Bouzouki music.
Piccolo, Old Port (behind church), 00-30-24-27-02-2780. For pizzas and pasta, served in a busy little square surrounded by other restaurants and shops.
Panorama, Profitis Ilias (near Evangelista Monastery), 00-30-69-44-19-2066, www.panoramapizza.com. Home-made pizzas and Greek cuisine in a location which boasts spectacular views of Skiathos.
What to do
Boat trips
Boats leave Skiathos harbour every morning between 9am and 10am, with a variety of destinations, from a round-island trip to visits to neighbouring islands or the Greek mainland.
Evangelista Monastery
Dating back to the 18th century, in a tranquil setting high up in the hills. Sample the wine produced locally by the monks while you're there.
Kastro
It's a steep climb to visit the medieval capital of the island, perched on a cliff-top, but it's worth it for the views alone.
Skiathos Dog Shelter, Kounistria
Animal lovers can take some of the rescued dogs for a walk if they're feeling guilty about leaving Fido or Patch at home.
Attikon open-air cinema, Papadiamanti Street, Skiathos town. Showing the latest releases in English.
Go shopping
The main shopping area is on Papadiamanti Street and adjacent side streets in
Skiathos town, selling designer-style gear, jewellery and souvenirs.