BOSTON:With an eclectic mix of the historic and modern, there is so much to do and see in this historic American city that your first task will be narrowing down all of your options, writes
RACHEL COLLINS
PERCHED 52 floors high in Boston’s Top of the Hub restaurant as a snow storm closes in around us, we may as well be eating lunch inside a life-sized snow globe. Our 360-degree view of the city is filled with swirling flakes and the effect is magical.
On a clear day, they say, you can see for 100 miles from the Top of the Hub and Skywalk Observatory (on the 50th floor) in the Prudential Centre – the second tallest building in Boston. Once the weather gods grew bored with shaking that snow globe, and the sun came out, we spent a contented hour picking out some of the city’s sites all around us: The Hancock Tower, Fenway Park, the Boston Common and Public Garden, MIT, Harvard University, the JFK Library. If the height doesn’t make you dizzy, the sheer volume of landmarks in Boston will.
Boston is steeped in history. Since it was founded by English Puritans in 1630, it has played a vital role in the shaping of the United States – the “Cradle of Liberty” – and its sons and daughters had pivotal roles in the American Revolution and the War of Independence. It’s the birthplace of American academia (Harvard was the first seat of higher education in the country). It gave the US some of its most important leaders, from Samuel Adams to John F Kennedy. The telephone and the first computer were invented here. It’s a city that boasts some of the country’s finest architecture, museums, art and culture. But it also prides itself on maintaining this impressive history while forging ahead as a vibrant, contemporary city, with exciting attractions and lively shopping districts, a varied nightlife and superb culinary offerings.
For a citybreak, therefore, Boston is ideal. There is so much to do; your first task will be narrowing down your options.
An excellent start to your trip is the aforementioned Skywalk Observatory. With its 360-degree view of the city and interesting, informative commentary delivered through personal headsets, it is an excellent introduction to Boston’s layout and main landmarks. The sight of the impressive Christian Science Center, with its sprawling plaza, twinkling reflecting pool and fountains and the Mary Baker Eddy Library is worth the trip to the observatory alone.
Once you’ve got your bearings, head back down to street level, where you’ll find Boston is a compact and easily navigated city. Its distinct neighbourhoods – heavily influenced by its various immigrant populations – are perfect for exploring. The local subway system, known as the T, is a convenient way to get around, but it seems a shame to go underground when Boston has so much architectural diversity and beauty on offer. A better option is the bright orange and green trams operated by Old Town Trolley Tours, which offer comprehensive hop-on/hop-off sightseeing trips.
BUT BOSTON is really best seen by foot. Unlike many other major American cities, it is relaxed and laid-back – and feels more like a small town than burgeoning metropolis.
Downtown, you’ll find a really pleasing mix of the old and the new. It’s a real treat to walk around a corner and get transported back nearly 300 years as you discover the city’s past with buildings such as the Old State House. The Freedom Trail (see panel) brings you on a two-and-a-half mile journey around the city centre, visiting 16 important historical sites. There’s also the Irish Heritage Trail, which charts the rich involvement of Irish men and women in the history of Boston. The jewel of the neighbourhood, though, is Boston Common and Public Gardens. Throwing off its history of housing cattle, soldier encampments and even witch hangings, the common – and the more formal public gardens – now offer visitors a break from the city with their ponds, ornate bridges, well-tended flower beds and some striking statues. Especially lovely are the bronze tributes to the mother duck and her eight ducklings in Robert McCloskey’s classic children’s book Make way for Ducklings.
Heading north, the Italian neighbourhood of North End has countless restaurants, cafes and eateries to explore. Row after row of red-brick buildings are tightly packed, with old-fashioned wrought iron fire escapes. Many house salumerias (delicatessens) that are popular in the area. You can hear Italian spoken in many shops and the area has a distinctive identity separate from the rest of the city.
To the east, you’ll find Back Bay and the South End – our base for the trip. This is arguably the most beautiful part of Boston. It is also home to the Boston Museum of Fine Art. I planned on spending a morning here – but this turned into a morning plus afternoon, which then turned into an entire day wandering around this incredible museum – and even then, I didn’t get to see everything. With more than 450,000 pieces of art, including a staggering array of American art and fine Japanese and Egyptian collections, the MFA also houses an excellent book and gift shop and two cafes and a restaurant in the new atrium – perfect for refuelling on what is bound to be a much longer visit than you planned.
Back Bay is also home to the Christian Science Center, the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum – where one of the greatest ever art heists took place in 1990 – and the beautiful Copley Square, which houses Boston City Library and Trinity Church.
For shopping, this is the area to head to – Boylston Street and nearby Newbury Street are the places to do damage to your wallet in the city. Whether it’s department stores or high end designer outlets, it’s a shopper’s dream.
For smaller boutiques and interesting one-off stores (and a plethora of nail salons for some reason!), head to the wealthy neighbourhood of Beacon Hill with its traditional buildings lining thin cobbled streets – this is also where you’ll find the Massachusetts State House, with its gleaming gold dome that is visible from many parts of the city.
ACROSS THE Charles River, lies Cambridge – where you’ll find Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) and of course, Harvard, one of the best-known and most recognisable universities in the world. It feels like you’re walking onto a movie set when you arrive in Cambridge, with its recognisable steeples and red-bricked university buildings and colourful clapboard houses. For some serious people-watching – and good food – head to Harvard Square, or take a walking tour of Harvard for an afternoon.
Food is high on the agenda in Boston. Portions are enormous, seafood is plentiful and locally sourced produce is par for the course. We had the best breakfast I’ve ever tasted in Boston (a lobster hash with poached eggs, mustardy hollandaise and salad), and whether it’s a hotdog at the ball game or high-end dining, Beantown has a lot more than beans to offer.
Boston is a really charming destination – it may lack some of the pace or diversity of larger cities in the States, but this is part of its appeal. A Boston welcome is genuine and warm, and will have you coming back for more.
With an eclectic mix of the historic and modern, there is so much to do and see in this historic
American city that your first task will be narrowing down all of your options, writes
City of sports take in a game while you're there
‘DEEE-FENCE . . . DEEE-FENCE
. . . DEEE-FENCE’. When more than 18,000 basketball fans are chanting in unison at the Boston Celtics on court, it’s hard not to agree that yes, the players should really keep an eye on defence . . . whatever that may mean.
Don’t miss the chance to go to a sports event while in Boston. They’re not just for sports fans: the action on the pitch or court takes a back seat to the noise, the music, the dancing, the acres of team merchandise, the hotdogs, the mascots, and the crazy competitions. It’s this excitement that keeps die-hard fans and clueless tourists alike on the edge of their seats.
Boston is home to the Celtics NBA team, and Bostonians take their support of the team very seriously. Shaquille O’Neill is a god here – all 7ft 1in of him – and the raucous shouts of encouragement for him and his team-mates and the joy of the crowd is infectious. With games on every few days between October and April, it’s a brilliant evening’s fun for all ages.
NBA games technically last 48 minutes, but with intervals between the quarters, countless time-outs, breaks in play and a 15-minute break at half-time, you are looking at more than two hours of entertainment. And entertaining it is, as the fast-paced action on court is matched (and often outshone) by the constant, noisy stream of diversions offered to keep fans happy.
Cheerleaders backflip onto court to fling T-shirts into the crowd. Words for chants appear every few minutes on huge circular LCD screens, whipping fans into a frenzy. Then there are the things people will do for prizes: eight-year-olds cycle up and down the court to win a basketball; grown men fall flat on their faces while jumping through car tyres to win . . . car tyres; and cameras constantly scan the crowd for dancing fans, and the footage is beamed onto huge screens – the one who gets the loudest cheer is deemed the “fan of the game”.
You may think you will resist standing up, dancing and waving a giant green foam hand while joining in with the chanting at the top of your lungs – but you won’t.
* Boston Celtics play at TD Garden, 100 Legends Way. Tickets from nba.com/celtics/
* The Boston Bruins – the city’s ice hockey team also play at TD Gardens. See bruins.nhl.com
* The Boston Red Socks play at Fenway Park. Details and tickets from boston.redsox.mlb.com
* The New England Patriots American Football team play at the Gillette Stadium, 35km south of Boston. See patriots.com
Boston where to . . .
3 places to stay
Value: Hotel Liberty Tall Ship Bed and Breakfast, 67 Long Wharf, 00-1-617-742-0333. libertyfleet.com. A fun alternative to the city’s limited hostels, this BB (“boat and breakfast”) is aboard a working tall ship, the Schooner Liberty Clipper, docked on the Waterfront close to Quincy Market. Six cabins are available each day, so advance booking is a must. Two persons per cabin, double beds available. Prices from $55 (€40)pp, and guests get a 30 per cent discount on harbour sails.
Midmarket: The Back Bay Hotel, 350 Stuart Street, Back Bay, 00-1-617-266-7200, doylecollection.com/locations/ boston. From $215 (€158). Housed in the old Boston Police Department headquarters (with lots of memorabilia) this quiet, welcoming hotel has simple, luxurious bedrooms and a lively bar and restaurants. Located in the middle of the Back Bay neighbourhood, it’s close to the city’s main shopping and tourist attractions. Excellent staff.
Upmarket: The W Hotel, 100 Stuart Street, 00-1-617-261-8700. Rooms from $260 (€190). In a city steeped in history, the W is a very modern, luxurious addition to the landscape. Part of a very chic chain, it’s one of the most fashionable places to stay. Cutting-edge design means the open public spaces are buzzing with visitors and locals, while the bedrooms are clean, simple and give amazing views of the city. The restaurant serves global cuisine with flair – even the gym is a work of art.
3 places to eat
Breakfast: Stephanie’s on Newbury, 190 Newbury Street, 00-1-617-236-0990. They promise “sophisticated comfort food”, but Stephanie’s offers a lot more. The place for brunch in Boston, it’s on the main shopping thoroughfare and is an oasis for tired feet and hungry tummies. Traditional New England fare with a twist and some interesting international offerings – such as Colombian corn cakes with chorizo – all come in hearty portions with fantastic service.
Lunch: The Russell Tavern, 14 Jfk Street, Cambridge, 00-1-617-500-3055. Situated on Harvard Square this lively tavern and restaurant give you an excellent spot for taking in the college atmosphere (and, of course, to people-watch) in the centre of Cambridge. Food is simple and creative, locally sourced and best washed down with a local Sam Adams beer. Their signature dish of crispy twice-cooked soft poached egg is a revelation.
Dinner: Top of the Hub, 800 Boylston Street, 00-1-617-536-1775. There isn’t a better – or more romantic – place to watch the sun go down over the city while sipping on a pre-dinner cocktail. This stylish restaurant on the 52nd floor of the Prudential Center may be known as a destination restaurant, but the food lives up to its surroundings. The menu tinkers with traditional dishes (we tried delicious buffalo prawns in place of buffalo wings), with a strong emphasis on local seafood and meats. A table by the window is a must.
3 places to go
Landmark: The Mapparium, Mary Baker Eddy Library, 200 Massachusetts Avenue, marybakereddylibrary.org. The Mapparium gives visitors the unique opportunity to travel to the centre of the world – literally. A glass bridge brings you to the centre of a three-storey high painted glass globe – the largest of its kind in existence. More than 600 glass panels recreate the world as it was in 1935, so while many countries’ borders are different today, it’s still fascinating to see. The “World of Ideas” presentation, with its music, LED lighting and words, brings the map right up to date.
Cultural: Boston has a wealth of fantastic museums, whatever your age or interests. For art lovers, there’s the landmark Museum of Fine Arts as well as the nearby Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, which houses a large collection of Renaissance art, manuscripts, books, silver and ceramics. The building housing the Institute of Contemporary Art – a stunning glass structure on the Waterfront – is as impressive as the collection inside. For history buffs, there’s the Paul Revere House, which gives a virtual tour of its owner’s Midnight Ride – which led to the American Revolution. The JFK museum gives an overview of the life, leadership and legacy of the former president. For the family, the Boston Children’s Museum and Museum of Science offer some serious fun with a little learning on the side. For a list of the city’s museums, see
cityofboston.gov/visitors.
Outdoors: Freedom Trail, thefreedomtrail.org. For a city so deeply defined by its history and so easy to get around, a walking tour is a perfect way to get to know Boston. You can choose from 90-minute tours given by guides in 18th-century costume, or you can download a map from the website for a free self-guided tour of 16 of the city’s major landmarks. Spread over a two-and-a-half mile walk, it begins at the visitor centre on Boston Common and ends at the famous Bunker Hill Monument.
Hot spot
Bond, at the Langham Hotel, 250 Franklin Street, bondboston.com. A great spot for a glamorous night out, this former bank now boasts some seriously over-the-top décor, delicious cocktails (all named after America’s most famous moneyed dynasties, of course) and a very cool crowd. It’s fun for early evening nibbles followed by a night of dancing.
Get there
Aer Lingus (aerlingus.com) flies from Dublin to Boston
