The true house of French kings: VISITORS TO PARIS often take a day away from the city to see Château de Versailles, seat of kings during the French golden age in the 17th and 18th centuries.
That’s all well and good, except that they miss Fontainebleau, a chateau almost as close to town occupied by French kings for 700 years, beginning in the Middle Ages, when it was a hunting lodge.
In the 16th century Francis I (1494-1547) gave the castle on the edge of the royal Forest of Fontainebleau a makeover, importing artists from Italy. Henry IV (1553-1610) created the garden, with its canal and patterned parterres. After degradation during the French Revolution, Napoleon – who called Fontainebleau “the true house of kings” – restored the chateau in the distinguished Empire style.
Et voilà: the chateau you see today as you approach along the Rue Royale from Paris, enter the gate and stand in the White Horse Courtyard, gazing at the famous horseshoe staircase where Napoleon said goodbye to his troops before going into exile in 1814.
Visitors can tour the Grands Appartements at will, with audio guides to point out the remarkable late Renaissance frescoes and Napoleon’s suite. Guided tours are available for the Petits Appartements and Napoleon Museum. The beautiful gardens are open daily, free of charge.
Royal patronage made the town of Fontainebleau prosper, and it is still a handsome place, full of shops, restaurants and hotels. Elegant cafes overlook Place Napoleon Bonaparte, with its carousel and pollarded trees. – Los Angeles Times
* Fontainebleau is about 45 minutes by train from Gare de Lyon, in Paris; you can buy package tickets, including train fare, bus connections and chateau entrance, at the station. 00-33-1-60749999, www.uk.fontainebleau- tourisme.com
* Do you know of a hidden gem? E-mail us at go@irishtimes.com