The Moroccan town of Marrakech offers a heady mix of Africa and the Middle East, and is on Europe's doorstep, writes DAVIN O'DWYER
THE INITIAL thrill of landing in a foreign locale – the rush of the new and different – tends to wear off pretty quickly for a seasoned traveller. The novelty of unfamiliar customs and cuisine, currency and conventions, lasts only so long after you’ve visited more than a few different countries – the act of discovering little differences becomes increasingly familiar.
Yet in Marrakech that feeling of dizzying dislocation doesn’t go away in a hurry – in fact, it is the abiding sensation of the place. You might have boarded just another budget flight but by the time you disembark you’ve been transported to another world entirely.
Marrakech is the jewel in Morocco’s gilded crown, an intoxicating mix of Africa and the Middle East, a gloriously vibrant city founded by the Almoravid Berbers in the 11th century. It wears its multiple influences on its surface: the buzzing walled medina, with its warren of tiny streets, is typically North African, and is surrounded by the modern city designed and built by the French, with its wide boulevards and classical proportions. It is, unsurprisingly, the medina that holds most of the attractions for visitors: Djemaa el Fna square, with its myriad performers and vendors; the sprawling, winding maze of laneways that make up the souks; the tranquil riads, or Moorish townhouses, many of which now function as charming guesthouses; the Saadian Tombs and Badii Palace; and everywhere the salmon-pink walls the city is renowned for.
The heart of the city is Djemaa el Fna, the vast area at the centre of the medina. The name means “Assembly of the Dead” in Arabic – it was where the decapitated heads of criminals were displayed – and at first glance, it’s an unprepossessing space; dusty and irregular. But it teems with life, from snake charmers and fortune tellers to rhythmic drummers and orange-juice sellers.
It really comes alive with the night market, when the northern part of the square becomes a giant outdoor restaurant, with stalls selling brochettes of grilled meats, snails and sheep’s heads, among many other local delicacies.
The square buzzes to the sound of mopeds whizzing by and donkeys shuffling along. Locals, many wearing traditional robes (men in the jellaba, with its pointy hood, and women in jilbab) amble around, taking in the street theatre surrounding them.
The cultural importance of the storytellers and musicians, and the risk that they would be forced out by economic development, prompted Unesco to designate the space a “Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity” in 2001, effectively the first world heritage site for cultural activity rather than architectural importance.
The Marrakech skyline is dominated by the imposing minaret of Koutoubia Mosque, just to the south of Djemaa el Fna, which stands proud against the snowy peaks of the High Atlas mountains in the distance (the range keeps the Sahara at bay).
A planning ordinance from the days of French rule forbids buildings in the medina from being taller than a palm tree, and t those outside the walls must be no taller than the minaret, ensuring that the Koutoubia minaret remains the highest point in the city. Non-Muslims aren’t allowed into most of the vast number of mosques in Marrakech, so it’s impossible for most visitors to enter the Koutoubia, but if you’re interested in catching a glimpse of Marrakech religious life, the 16th-century Medersa Ben Youssef, a former madrassa (Islamic school), offers a great opportunity to witness the splendours of Muslim architecture.
The madrassa is in the depths of the souks north of Djemaa el Fna, a large labyrinth of twisting alleys, filled with tiny shops and Berber and Arab traders insistently bartering and lobbying for business. Walking through the souks can be a disorienting, overwhelming experience, and getting lost in the maze for a few hours is the quintessential Marrakech experience – it is a world away from the anodyne malls and branded high streets that pass for shopping experiences here.
While many of the shops sell a lot of the same products – there are plenty of rugs, lanterns, leather bags and slippers, metalwork and wood carvings – certain areas have specific specialities. It is quite likely you will turn a corner and find yourself surrounded by metalworkers clanging away in their workshops, or stumble on a warren of lanes with dyed textiles drying overhead.
The tanneries further north are where much of the leather is treated and dyed, and there will be plenty of persistent local “guides” offering to show you there but be aware that you will be asked for a fee at the other end, so it’s probably advisable to find your own way around.
The alien delights of the souks will astound, just as the incessant hawking of the traders will exasperate, but the thrumming energy of the place and the city will stay with you for a long, long time.
Marrakech gives the impression of being simultaneously dynamic and immutable, a seductive combination that casts an enduring spell.
Where to stay, where to eat and where to go in the city
5 places to stay
Riad Dar Ganou. 3 Derb Fahl Ezzafriti, Laksour, Médina,00-212-524-391971, ryaddarganou.com. A riad is the archetypal Moroccan townhouse, with a small door, often quite ornate, the only external clue that a home lies inside. The modesty of the blank exterior is in contrast to the gorgeous interior courtyards, surrounding bedrooms and roof-top terraces – the tranquillity could not be more at odds with the bustle outside. Riad Dar Ganou is one of the best: French couple Veronique and Jean-Marc are the most helpful hosts imaginable, and the location, two minutes from Djemaa el Fna, is convenient. Breakfast on the terrace overlooking the roofs of Marrakech is the perfect start to the day, while you can cool down in the plunge pool in the courtyard.
Riad Harmonia. Derb Kennarria, Jdida No13, 00-212-655-158501, contact@zenithya.com. The Harmonia is another charming riad, a few minutes to the east of Djemaa el Fna. Renovated in the past few years, the rooms are in the traditional Moroccan style. The staff are immensely helpful.
Hotel Ali. Rue Moulay Ismaïl, Médina. The cheap and cheerful alternative to staying in a riad, Hotel Ali is a legendary backpacker’s rest stop, with private rooms as well as dorms. The Ali is so close to Djemaa el Fna that the snake charmers practically pass through the lobby.
Hotel Atlas Medina and Spa. Ave Hassan 1Er, 00-212-024-339999. This is one of a number of opulent five-star hotels in the Hivernage area of the new city, outside the old city walls. The Atlas Medina is one of the most stylish, with a sprawling garden and huge wellness centre.
Hotel Mamounia. Avenue Bab Jdid, 00-212-524-388600, mamounia.com. The smart new hotels in the Hivernage district might promise the height of luxury, but the Mamounia has been doing luxury for decades. One of those hotels so associated with a place it becomes a tourist destination in its own right, the Mamounia drips with colonial-era elegance. Winston Churchill used to stay here on his many visits to Marrakech. He painted here and some of his work is on the walls.
5 things to do
Djemaa el Fna. Hours can be spent here from morning til night, and it pays to return every so often to see the latest performers do their thing. There are colourful water sellers (known as gerrab), Gnawa musicians, snake charmers, henna tattooists, storytellers, monkeys and more – it’s like going to the circus but there’s no ringleader. Keep change on you because you’ll be asked to pony up if you watch anyone for a while.
Souks. Nothing will prepare you for these labyrinths, so take a few hours to get lost in the alleys and engage with the sellers. Bartering is a must, but their initially stated prices can be anything up to three times higher than what you might pay for the same item elsewhere, so be prepared to walk away if they don’t go low enough. Go to the Souk des Teinturiers, where dyed wool dries overhead; the Souk des Ferroniers, where metal workers clang on their latest pieces; and Rahba Kedima, a colourful open square full of spices and cafes.
Majorelle Gardens. jardinmajorelle.com. Marrakech is blessed with a lot of beautiful gardens but the best known is the Majorelle, named for the French painter Jacques Majorelle who opened them to the public in the late 1940s. They fell into disrepair, before being bought and restored by Yves Saint Laurent, who used to spend a part of each year in an adjacent villa
Hammam. These traditional Moroccan steam baths usually have three rooms of varying temperature, and punishing but refreshing massages. Most hotels and riads either have their own hammams, or special arrangements with ones nearby. One of the most popular is Les Bains de Marrakech (lesbainsdemarrakech.com).
Caleche around the walls. The caleches, or horse-drawn carriages, line up between the Koutoubia Mosque and Djemaa el Fna and, while bargaining skills will need to be at a premium, they offer one of the best ways of travelling around the city walls.
5 places to eat
Djemaa el Fna. No trip to Marrakech would be complete without a culinary experience in the nightly market. From about 5pm on, huge numbers of stall workers erect a forest of eateries at the northern edge of the square, and pretty soon the smoke and smells of a few dozen grills fill the air. The waiters will harry and hassle as they try to get you to eat at their stalls. The menus and prices are largely the same from stall to stall, and while some specialise in sheep’s heads or brains, there will be plenty for even the most conservative of Western palates. Brochettes, skewers of grilled lamb and chicken, are a popular choice, as is tagine and, of course, couscous.
Ksar El Hamra. 28 Riad Zitoune Lakdim, 00-212-024-427607, restaurantksarelhamra.com. One of the most sumptuous dining halls in Marrakech is tucked behind the unassuming exterior of this restaurant, found in an alley in the midst of the souks. The food is traditional Moroccan, and very tasty, but it is the stunning surroundings you will savour most of all.
Café de France. Place Djemaa el Fna. Café de France is an institution, and has one of the finest balconies overlooking Djemaa el Fna. Simple pizzas are available downstairs, if you’re craving some familiarity, while the top-floor terrace has more substantial fare.
Le Marrakchi. 52 Rue des banques, 00-212-44-4433777, le-marrakchi.blogspot.com. Conveniently located at the north side of Djemaa el Fna, this stylish restaurant takes more risks with Moroccan cuisine while maintaining some of the best traditions. And that includes belly dancers.
Le Comptoir, Avenue Echouada, Hivernage, 00-212- 524-437702, comptoirdarna.com. If you want a change of pace from the restaurants in the medina, travel outside the walls to this stylish hotspot in Gueliz, which offers French cuisine with a Moroccan twist, as well as a long cocktail bar for the fabulous people to lean against.
Hot spot
Pacha, Boulevard Mohamed VI, pachamarrakech.com. The biggest nightclub in north Africa, this colossal venue holds thousands of clubbers, and, like its siblings in Ibiza and around the world, attracts some of the biggest DJs on the globe. It’s a 10-minute taxi ride from the city centre, so expect to enter intense negotiations with the cabbies on the return leg after dancing all night.
Shop spot
Ensemble Artisanal, Ave Mohammed V. If the constant bartering in the souks gets too much for you, head to Ensemble Artisanal, which is a few minutes from the Koutoubia Mosque.
There are fixed prices on all the items, which are far more reasonable than those that the souk traders will quote you, and you can peruse the selection of rugs, leather goods and lamps in a far more leisurely fashion.
Coffee break
Cafe des Epices, 75 Rahba Lakdima, 00212-524 391 770, cafedesepices.net. Rising above the spices in Rahba Lakdima square in the heart of the souks, this charming café is a recommended pit-stop for when you need a well-deserved break from the constant bartering below.
The top-floor terrace offers great views of the city’s rooftops.