No new pretender could claim to have reached the same red pinnacle as Pinot Noir, writes John Wilson
IF I WERE EVER restricted to drinking wine from just one red grape variety, I would certainly chose Pinot Noir. I am a complete sucker for that fragrance, soft silkiness, and unique combination of power and elegance - irresistible! And for me, most of the time, Pinot Noir means Burgundy.
Winemakers around the world have struggled for decades with this capricious variety, trying to unlock its secrets. A few areas have succeeded; Oregon in the US, and Martinborough and Central Otago in New Zealand lead the pack. But none would claim to have reached the same pinnacle as Burgundy.
Pinot Noir is almost the sole red grape of Burgundy. Certainly, all of the serious wines are made from 100 per cent Pinot. As a variety, it mainly reflects the soil and climate in which it is grown, as can be proven by a tasting of wines in the cellars of any good Burgundy producer; each wine may be made in exactly the same fashion by the same winemaker, but no two wines will taste the same. For some, this adds to the confusion surrounding Burgundy, but in a world of increasing homogeneity, it offers endless fascination to real wine-lovers.
Generally speaking, the wines of the Côte de Nuits, the northern section of Burgundy, have darker fruits, greater succulence, and more body. The great names here include Gevrey-Chambertin, Vosne-Romanée and Nuits St Georges. Further south, the wines of the Côte de Beaune are lighter and more refreshing, with piquant summer fruits. Here you will find Volnay, Pommard, and Beaune itself. Burgundy is a small region, a quarter the size of Bordeaux. Pinot Noir does not produce large yields. Add these factors to an insatiable world demand, and you begin to understand why there is very little inexpensive red Burgundy around.
However, as with last week, the real bargains lie not at the cheapest level, but with the lesser wines from top producers. A Bourgogne Rouge from a good home will include wines from lesser vineyards outside the appellation, and also from younger vines in the best sites. It may also contain wines that were not quite good enough to be selected for the grand vin. Most of these come in at about €20-€25, and offer a great introduction to the wonderful world of really good Pinot Noir.
Vintages
Great winemakers invariably make great wine, even in the poorest vintages; poor winemakers rarely rise above the ordinary. This is true of Burgundy more than any other region. If you do want to find out more, I would suggest buying from a few producers you really trust, no matter what the year. Having said that, two recent vintages stand out in Burgundy; 2005 is one of the greatest for many years. Even the average producers managed something drinkable, and the good guys made superb wines, rich ripe and wonderfully concentrated. If you happen to come across a good name from 2002, I would also recommend snapping it up. The red wines have a mature silky elegance and delicacy.
Buying Burgundy
Buying Burgundy can be difficult. The better-known names, such as Louis Latour, Joseph Drouhin, Jadot and Faiveley, are fairly reliable and occasionally great. But the smaller growers are imported in tiny quantities by a number of specialist firms.
Burgundy Direct, set up by former army officer Conor Richardson, has one of the most desirable lists in the country. Quantities of most wines are very limited at times, but anyone serious about Burgundy needs to shop here (tel: 01-2896615).
Berry Brothers & Rudd have an excellent range in their Dublin shop, as well as access to a mouth-watering selection in the UK. Joachim Lefaure in Mitchell & Son has put together an eclectic range of Burgundies, including a few real goodies.
Enowine in the IFSC and Monkstown has a range from the very impressive Domaine Lignier. And I can also recommend the selection available through new online site, www.thestorehouse.ie jwilson@irish-times.ie