The climate in Piedmont may be more suited to producing white wines, but the reds can be very appealing too, writes John Wilson
THERE IS SOMETHING very autumnal about Piedmont; the mist-shrouded mountains, the hearty risotto, earthy truffles and porcini. The red wines can have a coolish, leafy quality, sometimes with a gamey touch, too. In fact, the climate here is probably better suited to white wine production than red. Yet when the vintage does go well, the reds have a fantastic delicacy and purity of fruit.
Every region of Italy seems to have countless unique grape varieties, unheard of elsewhere. I sometimes wonder if anyone knows them all. Piedmont is certainly no exception. Last week, we looked at Nebbiolo, the region's most noble grape, but there are plenty of others: Arneis, Favorita, Cortese, Grignolino, Erbaluce and Moscato for white wines, Barbera, Dolcetto, Freisa for the reds. You will find a few international grape varieties too; Chardonnay works very well around here.
Gavi, made from the Cortese grape, is probably the most popular Piedmont wine in Ireland. It has a style beloved of Italians, crisp, refreshing and light, without too much fruit. At times, it can get a little bit too watery, and you wonder if you are drinking wine at all. But at its best, it offers fresh lemon and mineral fruits.
Tesco is currently offering a very drinkable Gavi at an amazing €6.99. The Arneis grape, grown
mainly in the Roero region, offers a little more substance: yellow fruits, green apples and pears,
sometimes with a slightly mineral touch too. In recent years, the quality has improved, yet the
prices have not risen dramatically. Well worth a try.
Other than Nebbiolo, Piedmont has two distinctly different red grapes. Babera ticks a lot of boxes for me. It is generally fairly light in alcohol, more often un-oaked, with just-ripe crisp summer fruits, and a pleasing tartness. At the cheaper end, they can sometimes be a little too rasping, but eaten with rich or fatty food, the best are perfect food wines. The other red grape, Dolcetto, is the opposite to Barbera: soft, plump, ripe fruit, often with a touch of chocolate, and a mildly tannic finish.
The biggest wine product of Piedmont is not red or white however, but sparkling. From the hills south of Asti, pours a stream of frizzante and spumante, sparkling and semi-sparkling sweet wines made from the Moscato grape. If not too sweet, they can be delicious, although most wine snobs will turn up their noses at them. Could they be the next big thing after Prosecco? You will also occasionally come
across sweet fizzy red wines, made using either the Brachetto or Freisa grapes. If you do, be
sure to buy a bottle; it is well worth a punt. They are delicious, fun wines.
Gavi di Gavi 2007, 12.5%, €16.10.
Bracing sour pear and green apple fruits, with a lovely streak of mineral acidity. If that sounds a bit daunting, please don't be put off. This is a lovely wine. I would try it out with some grilled white fish, served with a jug of melted butter. Stockists: Karwig Wines, Carrigaline; Eugene's, Kenmare; Gibneys, Malahide; Cases Wine Warehouse, Galway; Cinnamon Cottage, Rochestown, Cork.
Fontanafredda Barbera d'Alba Raimonda 2006, 13.5%, €15.30
A classic blend of blackberry and blackcurrant fruits with a nice tanginess. This went perfectly with a roast chicken. Stockists: Karwig Wines, Carrigaline; The Corkscrew, Chatham St; World Wide Wines, Waterford; Eugenes, Kenmare; Gibneys, Malahide; Cases Wine Warehouse, Galway; Cinnamon Cottage, Rochestown, Cork.
Barbera d'Alba 'Nuela' Elio Filippino 2006, 13%, €16.95.
Textbook Barbera, with slightly lean damson fruits, a good "cut", and an easy finish. Very moreish wine. This would go very nicely with a pumpkin risotto, or belly of pork. Stockist: Brechin & Watchorn Wine, Dunville Ave, Ranelagh.
Moscato d'Asti 2006, Braida Vigna Senza, 5.5%, €17.99
Braida were the first producers to make something serious from the Barbera grape. Their "Ai Suma" Barbera d'Alba is one of the very finest. They also make a gorgeous Moscato. I adore this wine, a delicious frothy mouthful of freshly crushed grapes with vivid elderflower aromas. It is medium-sweet, but with good acidity, and at 5.5% alcohol, it won't knock you out. Serve with a fruit salad, and maybe add a drop or two to the salad as well. Otherwise, it is a great way to revive jaded palates after the meal. Stockists: The Old Stand, Mullingar; On the Grapevine, Booterstown and Dalkey; www.jnwine.com
TWO AROUND A TENNER
Favorita, Piedmont 2006, 12.5%, €9.99
Marks & Spencer has a number of interesting wines from Piedmont. This was my first time tasting the Favorita grape, and I loved the unusual lifted aromas, fresh pear fruits, and given focus by the zingy lemons. Very quaffable dry wine, to drink as an aperitif, or with nibbles. Stockist: Marks & Spencer
Don Pascual Reserva Merlot 2008, Uruguay, 13.8%, €9.99
A new arrival in the O'Briens stable, this is a seriously good wine at a great price. The big broad plummy fruits, clean structure and rounded easy finish make it perfect for the winter months ahead. Drink alongside substantial red meats. By the way, the top red wine from this estate, the Familia Deicas 1er cru Garage, is quite brilliant, although in a very different price category at €35. Stockists: O'Briens Wine Off-licences