Buying a vineyard is the latest accessory for the rich and famous, and the Irish are in on the act, writes John Wilson
FOR MOST wine lovers it remains a dream. But in recent years, a few Irish people have had the nerve, energy and money to head off to the continent to set up their own vineyards. A winery is the latest accessory for today's rich and wealthy, be they golfers, rock-stars, or just plain businessmen.
Everyone from Ernie Els, to Brad Pitt, to Cliff Richard, own vines in some part of the world. We all know about the Wine Geese, the sons and daughters of Irish immigrants who make wine in various parts of the world (see www.winegeese.ie). More recently, Irish businessmen Lochlann Quinn and the late Tony Ryan both invested heavily in purchasing top châteaux in Bordeaux. There have been other, less high-profile buyers, too.
To celebrate Saint Patrick's Day, we give you the opportunity to drown the shamrock with some "green" wine, and take a look at three Irishmen, from very different backgrounds, and the very different wines they produce. I had intended including the excellent Château Vignelaure; however it appears David and Catherine O'Brien have sold this excellent property in Provence to a Swiss investor.
Domaine des Anges
The angels must like it chilly. Domaine des Anges can be bitterly cold, even in spring. Back in the 1990s, I spent a night there, and nearly froze to death. As late as March, the ground in the lee of the mountain was frozen solid.
Domaine des Anges lies in Côte de Ventoux, part of the southern Rhône, or northern Provence, depending on who you talk to. The domaine is hidden away half-way up a steep hill facing the massive Mont Ventoux. Over the past decade, the reputation of Ventoux has moved steadily upwards, driven by a couple of quality-minded estates. In style, the wines tend to be fresh, and fruitier than the neighbouring Côtes du Rhône, but still pack a fair punch. If Grenache is used in the blend, they can sometimes have a pleasant spiciness, too. The appellation Côtes de Ventoux is not yet well-known; as a result it can sometimes offer great value.
This is the most Irish of estates; not only is it owned by an Irishman, but the winemaker is a Dub. Domaine des Anges is the property of Kilkenny businessman Gay McGuinness; he took over the estate in lieu of a debt he was owed by the previous owner.
The winemaker is Ciaran Rooney, who studied winemaking in Stellenbosch, and made wine in a variety of locations before settling here. Since his arrival six years ago, quality has improved greatly. Whereas before, the wines tended to be stubbornly dry and tannic, they now have an excellent supple quality and a great purity of fruit.
The domaine has a mix of local grapes (Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Bourbelenc for whites; Grenache, Syrah and Carignan for reds) alongside international varieties such as Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. For those interested in seeing the wine business close-up, Domaine des Anges has a number of gîtes for rent. See www.domainedesanges.com for details. The basic red and white are both good, the L'Archange a big step up in terms of both price and quality.
Domaines des Anges Blanc Cuvée L'Archange 200614% (€25.49). Made from the Roussanne grape variety, this is a very attractive plump wine with rich peach and nectarine fruits, overlaid with some subtle spice. You wouldn't really drink it on its own, but it would go down very nicely with a chicken korma, or a gratin of root vegetables. From: Bin No 9, Goatstown, D14; Thomas Deli, Foxrock; Redmonds of Ranelagh, D6.
The Bartons
Whereas most of the Bordeaux Irish Wine Geese have long since departed their Châteaux, Anthony Barton remains in charge of two leading properties that have been in family hands since the 1820s. Sometimes thought of as the quintessential Englishman, Barton was in fact born in Straffan House, now the K Club, which was his family home for three generations, and has always maintained a strong connection with this country. For many years, this included regular visits to his late father, who lived in Mount Merrion in Dublin.
The first Barton, known as French Tom, moved to Bordeaux in 1772, and since then an unbroken line of nine generations has worked there. Anthony began work with Barton & Guestier, the family firm which was sold 1964, and is now a part of Diageo. In 1983, he took over at the two family properties Châteaux Léoville-Barton and Langoa-Barton, on the death of his uncle, Ronald Barton.
The Grand Cru vineyards of these two properties face each other across the busy D2, the road that leads though all of the great vineyards of the Médoc. Barton lives at, and makes both wines in Langoa, there being no Château at Léoville. A traditional blend of around 70 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 per cent Merlot, and 10 per cent Cabernet Franc is used to make both wines. Not surprisingly, they have certain similarities, but also distinct differences. In my experience, Langoa tends to be more tannic, firmer and four-square, Léoville more elegant and graceful, but both are superb wines, with flavours of blackcurrants and cedarwood. They can be austere in their youth, but are always restrained and fine, with impeccable balance - textbook examples of Saint Julien. I rate them among the very best of Bordeaux.
Much of Bordeaux today is about hype, fashion and speculation. Barton, now assisted by his daughter Liliann Sartorius-Barton, has never joined in the rush for instant cash. Although the wines are hardly cheap, they offer value compared to many of the other great wines of Bordeaux. They are also consistently good, even in lesser vintages, and age very well - I have bought cases for several god-children. You will also come across the more reasonably-priced La Réserve de Léoville, the second wine of Léoville Barton, at around €40.
La Réserve de Léoville-Barton, Saint Julien 199912.5% (€37.99). Made from wines not considered quite good enough for the top wine, La Réserve gives you a less expensive introduction to the Barton style. Cool, stylish blackcurrants, with a lovely freshness, and an elegant dry finish. The 1999 is now fully mature. Perfect with roast lamb. From: Jus de Vine, Portmarnock.
Châteaux Langoa, Léoville-Barton and La Réserve de Léoville. These are available through independent off-licences and wine shops around the country. Expect to pay €60-€150 for the two top Châteaux, depending on the vintage, and around €40 for La Réserve. From: Jus de Vine in Portmarnock has numerous vintages of all three wines; so, too, do Mitchell & Son, D2; Donnybrook Fair, D4; Searsons, Monkstown, Co Dublin, and O'Briens.
Domaine Aonghusa Corbières
Since the age of 13, Pat Neville has been obsessed with wine. What started with elderberry wine in the family kitchen, has now progressed to winemaking in the Languedoc in the south of France. "It is all about the idea of transformation," he says. "I am fascinated by the fact that that you can express a soil, a climate, a year in a glass of wine."
In an earlier life, he was an inter-county footballer with Wexford, and a lecturer in old "middle" English at University College Cork. His wife Catherine, who works in IT, shares his love of wine. When she was transferred to Amsterdam and then Geneva, it afforded them greater opportunities to visit vineyards and to taste wine, leading eventually to the purchase of a vineyard in Corbières, one of the leading "crus" of the Languedoc. The couple now have a semi-shared existence; Patrick lives mainly on the isolated domaine near Fontjoncousse, a village of 120 people (with a two-star Michelin restaurant), Catherine in Geneva. They meet up as often as possible.
The first vintage was 2002. Pat, who is self-taught, does everything, the viticulture and the winemaking. This is fairly unique in an age where even producers with degrees in winemaking cannot move without a consultant oenologue to hold their hand. But then the wines of Domaine Aonghusa are different, too.
Modern winemaking has a fairly standard recipe for success, used in virtually every country. The idea may be right, but it can lead to a uniformity of style, with every red wine tasting soft, ripe and supple, with dark fruits, and spicy new oak. Pat Neville is determined to make wines that express the local "terroir". He has 12 hectares of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan. The vineyards are quite high, at 225 metres, and cool. "Our wine", he says, "is a cultural work. We don't try to make Corbières. It is a very large, mish-mash area, covering all sorts of soils. We make an expression of our soil. I want my wine to be a genuine wine. With a real wine, the third glass is more interesting than the first."
Domaine Aonghusa Laval Corbieres, 200314.5% (€17.99). Nevin argues that in this part of Corbières, Syrah must be allowed reach over 14 per cent potential alcohol to attain full ripeness. He compares this wine to a Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and you can see why; it is a big, powerful, meaty wine with concentrated flavours of swarthy dark fruits and figs. Try it with robust fare, a roast of lamb, or even better Irish stew. From: Deveneys, Rathmines, D6; Dicey Reillys, Ballyshannon, Co Donegal; Daly's Off-licence, Boyle, Co Roscommon; Next Door, Clane, Co Kildare; Egan's, Portlaoise, Co Laois; Phelan's Off-licence, Aughrim, Co Wicklow; Cana Wines, Mullingar, Co Westmeath; Day to Day, Newport, Co Tipperary; Neville & Nicholson; Thurles, Co Tipperary.
Two around €10
Domaine Aonghusa Mazuelo45+, Vin de Table 13% (€10). Pat Neville left it too late to submit this wine, made from old Carginan vines, to the authorities for classification as a Vin de Pays. Here's the thing about Carignan; make it from young, high-yielding vines, and you get a pretty weedy, acidic wine. But use 50-year old vines, and you can get excellent results. This example has slightly chewy, savoury peppery fruit, great balance, and a long finish. From: Deveneys, Rathmines; Dicey Reilly's, Ballyshannon, Co Donegal; Daly's Off-Licence, Boyle, Co Roscommon; Next Door, Clane, Co. Kildare; Egan's, Portlaoise, Co Laois; Phelan's Off-Licence, Aughrim, Co Wicklow; Cana Wines, Mullingar, Co Westmeath; Day to Day, Newport, Co Tipperary; Neville & Nicholson; Thurles, Co Tipperary.
Domaine de Nizas Rosé, Coteaux du Languedoc 2006, 13% (€9.99). This is not from the Ventoux, but the Languedoc, a source of many well-priced wines. Made from a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, this is a delicious fresh wine, offering layers of light, juicy strawberry and cherry fruits. The finish is good too; making for a lovely, easy-drinking wine with a bit of character. Watch out for the 2007 vintage of the same wine, too. Drink it solo or with salads, quiche and lighter pasta dishes. From: O'Briens Wine Off-Licences.