MY FIRST SIGHT of Beaulieu House near Drogheda, Co Louth, was a couple of years ago, from a distance, across the estuary of the Boyne river. It sat glinting in the sun, perched on a height, with a cascade of grassy terraces rolling downhill from it. The two-storey, square building – six windows across, and with a steeply sloped roof punctuated by three dormer windows – had a solid, theatrical presence. From this angle, it was (and still is) one of the prettiest houses in Ireland.
The lime-rendered and red-brick house was built in the 1660s, in the Dutch style, for a Henry Tichborne, who had commanded one of Charles I’s regiments in Ireland. For several centuries prior to this, the estate had belonged to the Plunkett family, but they had been made to forfeit it following their part in the 1641 rebellion.
Tichborne’s fine new home (completed the same year as that of his death) was one of the first unfortified houses to be built in Ireland, which seems remarkable, given that its owner was a military man of some prowess. Or perhaps he just wished to live his last days in quiet contemplation by the waters of the Boyne.
It is also remarkable that, despite the turbulent history of this island, the property is still in the hands of the same family. The names have changed along the way, as various females inherited, but Tichborne blood still flows in the veins of the present incumbent. She is Gabriel DeFreitas, the 10th generation of the family to reside here.
Before returning to take charge of Beaulieu, DeFreitas lived abroad – most recently in Guyana – and pursued a career as a driver of racing cars. But that’s another story, only dimly understood by me, I’m afraid. Motoring enthusiasts, however, will no doubt be enthralled by the four cars with their innards on display in the outhouse “museum”.
The walled garden is more up my alley. On a south-facing slope, and with warm brick walls, this was the preserve of DeFreitas’s mother, Sidney Waddington, who died four years ago. It is slightly later than the house, and dates from around 1720. The family attribute it to the Dutch landscape painter and decorative artist, Willem Van der Hagen, who spent some time at Beaulieu. But nothing remains of his work, except the walls, constructed of red brick, which was probably made locally – “there is a huge belt of clay soil across our land,” explains DeFreitas. An interesting plant house at the entrance to the garden is later again, possibly around the end of the 18th century. Inside is a little grotto, with a dark reservoir, fed by rainwater. This has a practical purpose as well as an aesthetic one – it is just large enough to dip a watering can into.
All gardens have minds of their own, and require constant taming and checking by humans. A patch of planting may be perfect one year, with everything growing sweetly in harmony and in pleasing proportion. But the next, it may become slightly unruly, and the year after it may gallop off on its own adventure. At Beaulieu, parts of the walled garden are nicely reined in, but others are champing at the bit. It is a high-maintenance space, and has just one full-time and one part-time gardener. DeFreitas would like to spend more time in it herself, but the demands of the house are immense.
Nonetheless, the spirit of her mother is alive and well in the style of the planting. A long herbaceous border that flows along the top of the garden is an uproar of colour. Bright red and orange crocosmias shout their heads off next to yellow-sunhat-wearing helenium and great golden plates of achillea. Deep blue agapanthus and delphinium, and orange and red gladioli clamour for attention among drifts of pink and white phlox. The colour combinations are guileless and exuberant – the Big House equivalent of the small urban garden with over-the-top bedding. “Mummy always felt that nothing in nature clashes,” says DeFreitas.
This theory is also tested further along in the low box parterre, a Victorian creation. Its spaces are planted with fruity concoctions of zinnias, chrysanthemums, dahlias, petunias, snapdragons and other jolly flowers. It is overlooked by a pair of ancient and massive, broodingly dark Irish yews. They’re two centuries old, and have seen a lot of activity in this sheltered space. A cooing wood pigeon sits awkwardly in the ivy that has snaked up one of their deep green shoulders. I’d love to be that wood pigeon’s descendant – for just one minute – another two centuries hence. jpowers@irishtimes.com
Beaulieu House and Gardens are open until mid-September, and by appointment other times. Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm; weekends, 1-5pm (not in September). Admission to gardens: €6, house: €6. 041-9838557; www.beaulieuhouse.ie
Today, noon-4pm: Festina Lente Walled Gardens celebrates Heritage Week , Old Connaught Avenue, Bray, Co Wicklow. Special events include a talk in the garden (today at 2.30pm) with Mary Davies, Festina Lente – A Victorian garden, Then and Now. Also plants and crafts sales, antiques valuations, music. Further events next Saturday. 01-2720704, www.festinalente.ie