WINE:Lamb loves red wine, just be sure to match the style of the wine to the dish, writes John Wilson
EATING LAMB at Easter has a long tradition, going back to the ritual slaughter of the Paschal lamb by Jews at Passover. For me, it is a little too early; new season lamb may be tender, but that is about it. A few months more age adds a huge amount of flavour and fat, both key to a good roast of lamb. The only exception I will make is for Cordero Asado, roast suckling lamb, and chuletas, baby lamb cutlets, both of which are popular throughout northern Spain.
Over the past year, I have been eating mutton. Despised by many, this will produce the best roast of all if treated properly. Sadly, the only source I have is a butcher in the English Market in Cork, many kilometres from where I live.
Lamb, and roast lamb in particular, is one of those meats that provides the perfect backdrop for you to showcase your finest wines. Served rare, it begs for a red with some tannins to provide what a friend of mine calls "cut", and seems to bring the meat to life. Grilled lamb cutlets probably need something a little bit lighter. Lamb stew needs something assertive.
Lambs once grazed on the salt-marshes of Pauillac, one of the Communes of the Médoc, picking up that pré-salé saltiness that the French revere. The drying tannins of a good Bordeaux are perfect with a fairly plain roast lamb, served with gravy and roast spuds. You can feel free to push the boat out, and serve your finest claret. However, if you are working on a more modest budget, basic Bordeaux, often thin and weedy in the past, has improved out of all recognition in recent years. You will find a wide variety of wines from €10-€20. Recent vintages have been kind to Bordeaux. The 2005 vintage produced excellent wines; 2002, 2004 and 2006 are all good balanced vintages, 2003 more powerful and ripe. Talk to your local wine merchant.
If you are eating your lamb Mediterranean-style, studded with garlic, rosemary and perhaps anchovies, served alongside roasted peppers, courgettes and aubergines, then I would suggest looking at more robust options. The south of France, the Rhône Valley north or south, would be perfect.
Over the past year, I have reacquainted myself with the pure Syrahs of the Northern Rhône; the wine below could find itself installed as a (fairly expensive) house wine in the Wilson household.
The other great partner for roast lamb is Rioja - any of the wines featured last week would do nicely. I have eaten the most wonderful rib-sticking lamb and bean stew in Rioja, but maybe we should stick to our own version, Irish stew. Either will require something assertive, possibly the Torbreck below, or the Concha y Toro Cabernet.
Domaine de Courteillac, Bordeaux Supérieur 2003 13% (€20.99).The property of Dominique Meneret, director of a Bordeaux firm of negociants, Domaine de Courteillac is one of the best "basic" Bordeaux around, punching way above its weight. Based mainly on the Merlot grape, this has delicious smooth, rounded plum fruits, good length, and some light dry tannins on the finish. Perfect with a roast leg of lamb. From:Kingdom Food and Wine Store, Tralee; Redmonds of Ranelagh; The Gables, Foxrock; Bin No. 9, Clonskeagh.
Syrah, Sensation du Nord, Vin du Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes Patrick & Christophe Bonnefond 2006 12.5% (€16.99).From one of the very best growers of Côte Rôtie, this is made from grapes too young for the Grand Vin. It is a very seductive wine, soft easy and smooth, but with a lovely savoury piquant touch, and a dry finish. Try it with a herby roast of lamb, possibly with tapenade, or some grilled lamb chops. From:Vanilla Grape, Kenmare; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Cases Beers Wines & Spirits, Galway; The Drinks Store, Dublin 7.
Torbreck Old Vines Grenache Shiraz Mourvèdre 2005, Barossa Valley 14.5% (€12.99, down from €19.99).If you do go for a more substantial dish - a stew as described above, or barbecued lamb, then an Aussie favourite would be a Barossa Shiraz. Few people do big and gutsy better than David Powell of Torbreck. On this occasion the Shiraz is blended into some Grenache and Mourvèdre, as would happen in the Southern Rhône. The result is a lovely rich, powerful glass of ripe plums and spice that fills the mouth with flavour. From:O'Briens Wine Off-Licences.
Cape Mentelle Cabernet Merlot 2001, Margaret River, Western Australia (€21.29).Founded by David Hohnen, who also started Cloudy Bay in New Zealand, Cape Mentelle is one of the leading estates of the Margaret River in Western Australia. The pure Cabernet, at around €40, is one of Australia's finest reds; however, the Cabernet Merlot, selling for considerably less, gives you a very good introduction; classy cool blackcurrants, plums and mint, with some fine-grained dry tannins on the finish. This wine would not be out of place in Bordeaux. From:The Vintry, Rathmines; The Mill Wine Centre, Maynooth; Supervalu Bradleys, Cork; Cheers, Balbriggan; Londis, Malahide.
Two around €10
Château des Eyssards, Bergerac Sec 2007 13.5% (€9.80).While waiting for your lamb to rest, crack open a bottle of this excellent fresh, crisp dry white, with its rounded apple fruits and zesty notes of citrus. Quite amazing value at €9.80. From:Mail-order from Wines Direct, www.winesdirect.ie, l1890-579579.
Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 13.5% (€10.99).Despite being the biggest producer in Chile, Concha y Toro manages to keep a remarkable consistency of quality throughout its range. The reds are generally fairly big, rich and ripe. The Casillero del Diablo Cabernet comes from the Maipo Valley, the premium Cabernet region in Chile. It is medium- to full-bodied with plenty of cassis overlaid with spicy oak. Great with most styles of lamb. From:Widely available through off-licences, and from branches of Dunnes Stores, Supervalu, Tesco and Superquinn.