It was very tough at the start, says John O'Byrne of Dobbins. "Now you can't get into the place." Dobbins will be 25 years in business next year. "It's great in one way and not in another," says Mr O'Byrne of its popularity. "We get more complaints because people can't get in."

Today, the restaurant serves about 1,000 customers a week. "The menu is good," he says when asked to explain the success of Dobbins. "They come back for the food and the atmosphere. The food is very important. How many times do you hear about all these funny restaurants all over the country which people still keep going back to? They go back because the food is great."

"We do everything fresh. That takes a bit of time. You can't run in and out in half an hour." He also attributes the success of Dobbins to the fact that many staff are also shareholders, a scheme he put into operation nearly ten years ago.

The majority of customers are regulars, "business people particularly - people in stockbroking, banking, advertising - and government." That makes a solid foundation for a restaurant. even in recessionary periods. "When things are bad, they cut down and buy the house wine - but they still have to go out and do business and do deals."

They also get a lot of customers from England and "a lot of stars". Being in the Michelin guide helps, not with Irish people because he doubts if they look it up, but with visitors from abroad. "We have about the best wine selection in Dublin. If you're a customer and you fancy a wine, you can take a case or a bottle home at half price."

There has been very little physical change in the premises over the years. Attractions include a patio at the back where people can sit out in the heart of Georgian Dublin - weather permitting.

Dobbins, 15 Stephen's Lane, Dublin 2, tel. 01-6764679.