MONITOR: Goat's curd is coming your way

IT DOESN'T HAPPENoften, but occasionally the obvious waltzes up and smacks you right in the chops. There I was, judging the Irish Organic Awards at the Bord Bia offices the other week, and an unassuming tub of deliciousness presented itself. Goat's curd may not sound revolutionary (or delicious), but in its own way, it is both.

This ingredient has been on menus in the UK for some years now. Typically, it appears in a salad, as in a warm salad of roast baby beetroot, green beans and goat’s curd; or occasionally spread on toast and delivered in a soup, as a goat’s curd croute. But this simple ingredient can also end up in a tart, quiche or savoury custard, such as saffron and goat’s curd mousse with mixed leaves and hazelnut dressing.

Goat’s curd certainly is versatile. It could be described as goat’s cheese with attitude, yet this would suggest something more robust when the whole point of curd is that it is mild and subtle, a hint of what the cheese might be were it allowed through the process rather than being held back.

St Tola goat’s curd has a signature citrus tang but in a mild, understated form. Eating more is not a problem, but, like ice cream, it is difficult to stop eating it. It also spreads well. Not quite as smooth as butter, but smooth enough to cover a slice of sandwich bread without ripping it apart. For those of you who use Philadelphia cream cheese, this is not a huge step away. Not as whipped, maybe, but some would say that is a good thing. As for flavour, why eat something that tastes of so little, when you can have the beauty of the Irish countryside delivered in one easy swoosh of a knife?

Goats are seasonal creatures and lactate accordingly. They produce less milk than cows, but it is richer in vitamins and minerals. Historically, goat’s milk has been recommended for babies because it is easier to digest. For the scientists among you, a high proportion of small- and medium-chain fatty acids are more easily absorbed into the body. Likewise, goat’s curds are much easier to digest than curds from cow milk.

This goat’s curd is, like all goat’s milk, naturally homogenised because it lacks a protein called agglutinin. This, plus the lower casein proteins in goat’s milk, result in smaller curds, which is why you get that easy spreadability. And digestibility.

Innovation is not easy, particularly in the area of artisan food. The inspiration for the creation of this wonderful surprise came directly from chefs, who want to put Irish produce on their menus. So don’t be surprised if you start to see autumn salads with goat’s curd. harnold@irishtimes.com

St Tola goat’s curd can be found on a growing number of menus around the country, and is available to buy from The Organic Supermarket, 2c Main Street, Blackrock, Co Dublin, 01-278111, tel: www.organicsupermarket.ie.