Joe Breen on how to guzzle your way through California
Although Sonoma is a county rich in history, its wine industry, likes the rest of California's, is relatively young. Vines were first planted in the 19th century, but only in the 1970s did US wine become something to appreciate. Since then the Americans have been quick to capitalise on the area's immense potential.
The bulk of attention has been on northern California, in particular Napa Valley, northeast of San Francisco, where heady Cabernet Sauvignons and rich Chardonnays vie with Zinfandel, the wine indigenous to California, for glowing reviews and hair-raising prices. Sonoma, which separates Napa from the Pacific Ocean, has been perceived by some as a lesser wine area. That is now changing.
In the past 35 years the number of wineries has quadrupled in California; the amount of land under vine has grown in tandem. As it is such a young industry, however, there is still much trial and error in selection of grapes and styles of wine. In addition, the fluctuations of fashion - in the US, marketing rules - and the consequent economic pressures on wineries always to have the right wine at the right time make wine-making a perilous business.
The climate and soil of Sonoma make it suitable for most grape varieties. This is both good and bad: there is plenty of variety, but it can be at the cost of specialisation and the creation of definitive styles.
The US version of the comparatively tight French Appellation Contrôlée system, the American Viticultural Area (AVA), places no controls on quality, varieties, planting practices or yields. Certain areas of Sonoma, however, known as sub-AVAs, are increasingly associated with styles of wine: Pinot Noir with Russian River Valley, Zinfandel with Dry Creek Valley, Cabernet with Knights Valley and Chardonnay with Carneros (this AVA is shared with Napa). In addition, Merlot has prospered generally (although as Patsey Murphy mentions above, the film Sideways has made it and Chardonnay very unfashionable). But all areas display great diversity, with varieties from Tuscany's great Sangiovese to the Rhône's Grenache being planted. Sauvignon Blanc also has a serious presence, although in California it is often oaked and called Fumé Blanc.
It seems Sonoma can only grow as an area of excellence in wine production, as skills are honed and nature's bounty better used. Price remains a barrier, however. Even when the dollar was weak against the euro, the middle and top rank of Californian wines were prohibitively priced. The lower end remains within reach, but much of this consists of bland brands bolstered by brash marketing.
TWO TO TRY
Ravenswood Vintners Blend California Chardonnay 2002 (13.5 per cent alcohol, €16.99 from O'Brien's) This is a pretty basic offering by Sonoma standards, and, indeed, it is an entry-level wine. Ravenswood, which declares that it offers "no wimpy wines", made its name with Zinfandel, but this typically heavily oaked medium-weight Chardonnay makes for pleasant drinking. There is no great length, and the oak tests the strength of the fruit, but the balance is just about right.
Rancho Zabaco Sonoma County Zinfandel 2002 (14.5 per cent alcohol, €21.35 from Corkscrew, Chatham Street, Dublin; Donnybrook Fair, Dublin; Grape Escape, Lucan; On the Grapevine, Dalkey and Booterstown; Cheers, Delgany; Chester Beattys, Ashford; Thomas Woodberries, Galway; Ardkeen Stores and World Wide Wines, Waterford) This is actually a Gallo winery, although it stays at a long arm's length. Big and bold is what the winemaker promises, and the wine delivers. Zinfandel is often compared to Italy's Primitivo, as both produce a spicy and pepperish wine, packed with sunburnt fruit. This mid-range Zinfandel has a dense nose of worn leather and is chewy and big in the mouth with a full finish. As subtle as a flying mallet, with an alcohol hit to match.