Four to try, from Enowine, Monkstown, Dublin, and Cavan town, and www.enowine.ie.
Domaine du Roc, Tradition 2002, Minervois, 13.5%, €11.99: Winter woolies time. Enowine describes this robust character as comfort for a cold evening. They are pretty much on the money, with spicy flavours and rich sun-darkened fruit combining to produce a Languedoc wine full of vivacity and big-hearted openness that boxes well above its weight. Good value.
Clos du Roy, Marsannay, 2001, 13%, €22.99: One of the relatively unsung stars of the Côte d'Or, Marsannay wines are considered lighter and less substantial than their more illustrious neighbours to the south, such as Gevrey Chambertin. But this is unmistakably Burgundy, with earthy aromas, dense, savoury fruit in a medium body and a lingering finish, albeit lacking the finesse, complexity and concentration of its betters.
L'Oro de Cavaliere Vin Santo del Chianti Classico 1994, 17%, €22.99: In this version of the tangerine-coloured dessert wine, there are echoes of burnt orange and hot Christmas pudding on the nose, a rich bitter-sweet mouthful of great density that shows off its 17% alcohol a little too obviously, and a finish full of dark spice.
Domaine Renaud, Pouilly Fuissé, Vieille Vignes 2003, 13.5%, €19.99: Nicely balanced old vine Chardonnay with ripe apple flavours, balanced by a crisp acidity, and a pronounced mineral tone giving the wine some serious backbone. The finish is full, if a little short, with a hint of lemon.