WINE:Australia's Shiraz wines pack a powerful punch, and they're dangerously gluggable, writes John Wilson
OUR IMAGE OF Aussie Shiraz, if we have one, is informed mainly by Barossa Shiraz. Big, rich and powerful, it took the world by storm in the 1980s and 90s, winning us over as much by sheer force of personality as any great complexity.
I am being a little unfair here, there are some excellent Barossa Shiraz - balanced wines that have a lot to offer the wine drinker. They are also dangerously gluggable. But Aussie Shiraz has been changing over the past decade; even the Barossa producers have been navel-gazing, to see if they can improve their offering.
There are still plenty of full-throttle wines - some a little too extracted, and some a little over-oaked - but balance is the key word here. You will also come across some deliciously ripe, rich wines with well-integrated tannins and real style and length.
However, there is more to Australia than the Barossa. There are a number of distinct styles now emerging, some much cooler and more elegant in style. Below I look at four very different Shiraz.
Bethany Shiraz, Barossa Valley 2004, 13.5%, €18.99
This wine is from the Schrapel family, who trace their roots back five generations in the Barossa. The entire Barossa was settled by Silesian immigrants fleeing persecution in the 1850s. The valley has a number of very beautiful villages, each with several Lutheran churches. The Schrapels are based in the town of Bethany, in the foothills of the cooler Eden Valley. As a result, they can produce some very stylish white wines, alongside some excellent reds. The Shiraz above is not quite as big or gutsy as some, but manages to combine delicious intense plum fruits with a lovely elegance and balance.
Stockists:O'Briens Wine off-licences.
Bests Great Western Shiraz 2005, Victoria, 14.5%, €15.99-€16.99
Bests deserve to be better known for their wines. Their Riesling is always sound stuff, but it is their various Shiraz that stand out as really special. The vineyards at Great Western were first established during the gold rush of the 1850s (as was Tahbilk). The region made its name with sparkling wines. The Shiraz is beautifully scented, with delicious, clean, dark cherry fruits, a lovely raw edge and, surprisingly, tame tannins on the finish. For a real treat, go for the Bin No. O Shiraz - not cheap at more than €30, but a brilliant wine, considerably better than many more expensive Aussie Shiraz.
Stockists:The Bottle Shop, Goatstown; Lilac Wines, Fairview; Mad About Wine, Moycullen; Parsons Wines, Carrigaline; Redmond's, Ranelagh and www.jnwine.com.
Tahbilk Shiraz 2001, Nagambie Lakes, 13.5%, €14.99
There are only two serious producers in Nagambie Lakes - Mitchelton, whose wines are imported by Dunnes Stores, and Tahbilk. This is a legendary producer, with what they claim are the oldest Syrah/Shiraz vines in the world, dating back to 1860.
I love all the Tahbilk wines. They are made in a distinctive uncompromising style that eschews new oak. I recommended the Tahbilk Marsanne a few months ago, one of my dessert island whites; the various levels of Shiraz are equally good, packed with chewy ripe plums and forest fruits. with a dry tannic finish. The three top ranges - Reserve, 1860 and Eric Purbrick - are all hugely structured wines, with rasping dry tannins. They need patience, and food, but are among Australia's very best. The wine above also needs food, definitely something substantial; it has plenty of those pure forest fruits. It will improve in the glass, and mature in the cellar for another five years.
Stockists:Hollands, Bray; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Mitchell & Son, Rathfarnham; Goose Off-licence, Drumcondra; Sheils's, Dorset Street; Uncorked, Rathfarnham; Lilac Wines, Phibsboro; Bunch of Grapes, Donabate; Red Island Wine, Skerries.
Yarra Valley Shiraz Viognier de Bortoli, 14%, €36
The producers of the Yarra Valley cannot quite decide what they do best. Certainly the slightly cooler climate makes for some subtle Chardonnay, as well as some smart Pinot Noir. It is also here that Green Point, Australia's finest sparkling wine producers, are based. But in recent years, it is Shiraz that has been making most of the news, particularly those that contain a percentage or two of Viognier, a white grape variety. Yarra Valley Shiraz is perfumed and relatively elegant, with cool peppery damson and plum fruits, and sometimes a savoury edge. Just like the wine above. It is not cheap, but it will show you a completely different side to Aussie Shiraz.
Stockists:Skibbereen Food & Wine Market; Redmond's, Ranelagh; World Wide Wines, Waterford.
Visiting the vineyards
Nagambie Lakes, the Yarra and Great Western are all close to the city of Melbourne, a foodie mecca, with some brilliant restaurants and wine bars. The Yarra is particularly beautiful, and well worth a visit. The Barossa Valley, close to Adelaide, has its own gourmet food and wine trails, often including excellent German-style sausages. All of the above wineries welcome visitors, and some have restaurants as well.